Daikokuya

Back for my second visit on 20250824. The cold spring is just right on a hot day, around 31℃, so it cools you down slowly without feeling too cold or too lukewarm. The cypress and rock baths alternate between men and women on different days. Between the river babbling and the cicadas, it’s a very soothing place. Since the inn sits beside a river amid nature, there are lots of insects, so keep that in mind if you don’t like them.

The service was average, and drinks outside the meals are pricey. A small bottle of tea costs 400 yen. You also have to leave your shoes at the hotel and get them back every time you go out, which is inconvenient. The baths are either cypress or rock, with men and women alternating daily. I think this is one of the better ryokans in Shimobe Onsen.

I had a peaceful solo stay at this hot spring resort, about a 20-minute walk from Shimobe Onsen Station. It was my first time having that kind of quiet and freedom on a trip by myself, and it felt precious. I went on September 11th, when the heat was still intense. Shimobe Onsen is wonderful.

I’d heard Shimobe Onsen, in southern Yamanashi, was one of Shingen’s hidden hot springs, so I’d wanted to see it. Minobu, a little farther away, is a sacred place for Yuru Camp, and there are several hot springs for day trips too. Daikokuya has a bath beside a river and waterfall. I’d heard you could soak while listening to the calming river sound and a kikinagara, a Japanese melody, and it really is soothing. The area is known for its lukewarm and cold springs. Going between the hot and cold water seems to help circulation and leaves you feeling warm and cozy. The cool temperature is great in summer and just right for a long soak. I stayed in for an hour. This may sound like a stretch, but there’s a rock in the cold spring, and I’ve sat in the hollow on the right in a meditative state. Twice I felt as if a vein had opened and something like air was rising. Maybe it was a vein? The river sounds leave me feeling somehow empty. Even on a weekend, there weren’t many people, which was nice! ＼(^o^)／ It’s open until 4 PM and costs 1,000 yen. Getting there by highway is easy. Kuonji Temple, the head temple of the Nichiren sect, and the Laid-Back Camp holy land made for quite a trip. I also saw lots of signs for raw yuba.