Shigira Bayside Suite Allamanda

That bright welcome from Hitome-chan really stood out. She was sunny and greeted us each time in a way that almost felt like coming home. The beaches are absolutely outstanding, so I might come back to Miyakojima for 2-3 days. The Allamanda, though, probably not. At more than 60,000 yen a night, I expect a premium, elegant stay. Our room felt worn, inconvenient, and noisy, whether from kids in nearby rooms or the loud construction of a new hotel inside the resort. They didn't warn us or apologize. We booked dinner ahead, but the options still felt totally overpriced. For the same money in Ishigaki, you can get a much more premium experience. Staff were often tired, unfriendly, or unhelpful, even though I speak fluent Japanese. From day four they stopped cleaning our room, saying we hadn't asked them to. I could have complained, but that would've made the mood worse, and I didn't need a bottle of wine as an apology.

Miyakojima is well worth visiting if you live in Japan, especially for diving. If we return, though, we'll stay somewhere else. The breakfast buffet was very good, but dinner was a real problem. When we arrived, every resort restaurant was booked, so we faced a long queue at a canteen. Even booking ahead, we often could only get 5pm or 9pm, with nothing in between. Getting to restaurants outside the resort is very inconvenient, and the resort dining options are pricey, starting around 6,000-7,000 yen per person before drinks. The staff were sometimes friendly and helpful, sometimes cold and impersonal. For a room costing over 60,000 yen a night, that service and politeness fell short. The Allamanda charges rates similar to some of the best hotels in Tokyo or Osaka, but it isn't in the same league. I've stayed twice. The jacuzzi suite disappointed me more than the pool suite. It was a decent size, but felt cold and impersonal, like a dentist's waiting room furnished with cheap second-hand things. There was no sign of thoughtful design or local materials. It didn't feel especially new or clean, the walls were scuffed, the black surfaces had visible hand marks, and there were occasional sewage smells in the room.

The beach is clean, and the coral is very well protected. From the platform on the left, you can snorkel easily, and there's a sea turtle living there that you may meet in the water. There are two more pools that opened near the beach this summer. They look large and nice, though there are no free shades there either. It seems you can bring a pop-up tent. Shade is the main drawback. At the beach, every cabana costs 7,000-8,000 JPY, with no free ones. By the hotel's two pools there are some umbrellas, but they're too small. Also, if a restaurant is hosting a wedding party, the pool in front of it closes. Food is generally excellent, with Japanese dishes, teppan-yaki steaks, pizza, Italian food, soba and udon, tempura, and casual Okinawan cuisine. Service is acceptable for the price and much better than at other Japanese hotels. It's still a typical Japanese hotel, but one of the better ones. I've stayed twice and was satisfied. It's a large hotel, set far from the beach, so you need a transfer there and back. The transfer runs on a schedule, in a typically Japanese way, so plan around it. There are a few restaurants, with more options elsewhere in the resort complex. In the Okinawa area, this is my first choice.

We rented a golf cart to get around. The beach wasn't very crowded during Tsuyu, the rainy season. Each room has its own pool, with a great view.