Yama No Yu Sekizen

The meals were tasty and felt home cooked, and the staff were kind and accommodating when we came with our baby. Everyone in the family slept soundly, so the hot spring seems to work well for us. The water has fine red particles in it, perhaps from the iron. The place seems to host ski camps, and the building has an old, nostalgic smell and feel, a bit like visiting your grandmother’s house. That may not be for everyone, but I personally liked it. The thick futon mattress was another plus and made for a deep sleep.

I’m glad I stopped at Seki Onsen, since the spring water was completely different from Tsubame Onsen. It’s iron rich and quite hot, and warmed me through. The washing area had a lodge-like feel, which I liked, and the ski resort is right in front. It seems the inn is used for ski camps. I wondered if the owner might be an instructor. The bath cost ¥600. I’d gone there after a morning soak following a mountain climb. At Kogane-no-Yu in Tsubame Onsen, being a natural hot spring meant I couldn’t use soap, and I really wanted to wash my hair and feel fresh. I’d been choosing between Seki Onsen and Akakura Onsen, then decided on Seki on my way back. It was only around 9 AM, so I wasn’t sure day bathing would be available. At the first inn advertising day use, I opened the door and called out, but nobody came. I tried this place next without expecting much. There was no answer for a while here either, and just as I was about to give up, the owner appeared, apparently after seeing to an acquaintance, and kindly let me bathe.

The bath was the real treat: hot water was pouring into a single tub, and watching it flow was blissful. The spring was a little reddish and salty, rich in iron, and very hot. With nobody else there, I’d guess it was about 44℃, so it may be tough if you prefer lukewarm water. There were three washing stations, with shampoo and body soap provided. The changing area was simple, just baskets and two sinks, with no hairdryers or other amenities. I’d parked in the large lot at the entrance to Seki Onsen and walked over for a weekday afternoon visit. The town was deserted, and I worried whether the baths would even be open. A sign said day bathing was available, but nobody was at Sekizen’s entrance when I went in. I called out and waited with no response. It looked like the sign meant to pay and enter, so I left 600 yen at the front desk and went to the bath. Day visitors are asked to keep their stay to around 40 minutes, but with no one else there I didn’t feel I had to worry about it. I didn’t see anyone from entering until I left. It really felt like the place runs on trust.

For the price, I don’t think it was worth it. The hot spring water and food were decent, but I’d booked expecting a regular inn and found it more like a student dorm. I could accept not having a bathroom in the room because there’s a hot spring, but there was no toilet, sink, or refrigerator either. The rate was similar to a mid-range inn, and I regret not looking into the place more carefully before booking.