Nanpeidai Hotel

The rooftop bath's view over the Nakagawa River and the Nasu and Nikko mountain ranges was lovely, and the soak left me feeling relaxed from head to toe. The water was incredibly silky, almost like lotion. With its pH of 9.6, the alkaline spring left my skin feeling so smooth, and the plentiful hot water warmed me right through. It really did feel like a beauty bath.

We came as a family of working adults over a three-day autumn weekend. There were no traffic jams, maybe because there aren't famous attractions nearby, and we got there early. We started with a soak at Kannonyu, the large open-air bath that's also open to day visitors. Back at the inn, the welcome drink and an ice-cold draft beer in the lobby hit the spot. The staff were all warm, attentive, and smiling. Dinner was the "Chief Chef's Specialty Meal Plan," with horse sashimi added. The generous platters were full of carefully made dishes, and the huge, tender pieces of horse sashimi stood out. We liked the range of flavors and left completely full. Breakfast had plenty of sides to go with the tasty rice. The rooftop open-air bath was a treat too. We soaked in its soft, velvety water while looking out over a sea of clouds. The food and hot springs helped us unwind after work.

The spring water was the best part for me: alkaline, pH 9.6, and pleasantly viscous. The rooms were quiet for the price, and a room facing the right way gives you a mountain view. The inn is old, though it was clean. There was a shuttle bus with a nice driver, plus welcome drinks, an amenity bar, and ice cream after bathing until 9 p.m. Still, the stay left me worn out. I paid over 20,000 yen for a weekday break, but the toilet smelled so bad I couldn't use it without the fan on, and there were lots of holes in the tatami and a step at the room entrance. I couldn't enjoy the food either. The flavors were too strong, and there was a strongly colored powder. The breakfast buffet was full, but some dishes had run out and weren't replenished, leaving them impossible to eat. The inn is described as suitable for families with children and pregnant women. At dinner, a baby in another room cried for a long time. The host suddenly remarked, "It's great that you can travel with a six-month-old baby," even though we'd never discussed the baby. It felt like a hint that I should put up with the crying. Of course babies cry, and as a family we took turns holding and calming ours whenever it started, trying to avoid disturbing other people. I thought the remark was unreasonable, and question whether the inn should be putting that expectation on us. The family was a husband and wife with a baby, so they could have taken turns too. People have different preferences, and everyone else was eating at a relaxed pace. I'd like to return for the water, but I may hesitate if the service is the same. I hope the inn reconsiders how it treats guests.

The hot springs were enjoyable, and I especially liked the food, including the breakfast buffet. The room's toilet and bathroom were showing their age, though. The coffee machine and beer dispenser also seemed poorly cared for and could use maintenance.