Myogaya Honkan

The food was delicious, and the employees were very kind. I don’t mind an old building, but what happened in my room was unacceptable. At 7:30 in the morning, someone unlocked the door, came in, and left. I wondered if I’d imagined it, but after breakfast I returned to find my futon gone. I hadn’t checked out yet, and my valuables were still in the room. When I asked why, the boss said this was the rule at Japanese onsens. I was stunned. Who takes responsibility for entering a guest’s room like that? The owner treated customers like beggars asking for handouts.

I paid $150 for the meals, which included a full course with sashimi and wagyu. The room was usable, though a little dated and damaged in places. I’d come because of the inn’s past reputation, but its celebrated old buildings, some said to be a hundred years old, are barely in use now. One can’t be entered at all, and the other is only open for meals.

The room was clean and lovely, with welcome tea and snacks, and a window looking out over the mountains and river. Dinner is traditional Japanese food served in a beautiful old room, where you sit on tatami. It normally includes meat, so vegetarians should let them know ahead of time. The building felt freezing while we walked around, and I was uneasy about how old the stairs to the mixed onsen were. Some parts may need fixing. There are 88 steps to reach the bath, tied to the hotel’s history, but soaking in the natural setting was worth the climb. It’s a beautiful place and the most traditional ryokan I’ve stayed in so far.

A lovely hidden onsen in the middle of nature, with mixed baths and healthy traditional Japanese food. Just right for getting away from city life. Highly recommended.