Nasuitamuro Onsen, Onsen Ryokan Yamaki

The food was excellent, served in a lovely private room. Dinner featured carefully prepared local ingredients from Nasu, and breakfast the next morning was another pleasant surprise. The hot spring was available for private use at set times, which made for a very relaxing soak. I arrived on November 5th after dark and was greeted right by my car. They helped with my luggage, then welcomed me in the lobby with matcha and sweets. Details throughout, from the entrance staircase and courtyard to the subtle art and indirect lighting in the rooms and building, made the stay feel special. Yamaki's comfortable atmosphere and great taste impressed me more than those of better known hotels. The staff were friendly, approachable, and polite, with superb service and attention to detail. I'd love to return to Yamaki, and would even visit Nasu just to stay there again.

Dinner was elaborate and delicious, and there's a wide sake selection to go with it. I'm a light eater, so the portions suited me well. The inn has only a few rooms, like many places in Itamuro Onsen, which made for a peaceful stay. The whole building seems to have been renovated and is very clean, with modern rooms. Two rooms have semi-open-air baths, so you can enjoy Itamuro Onsen anytime. The large public bath has the area's distinctive standing bath, which you climb into using a rope. At night, each room gets its own private bath, so you may have the large bath all to yourself. There are a lot of stairs, so it may not work for people with disabilities. Still, it's a very nice inn, and I'll definitely come back.

The kaiseki was delicious and filling enough that we didn't need snacks in the room. There was sashimi, rice, shabu-shabu, and more, so even if you missed a bite or didn't enjoy every dish, there was plenty to satisfy you. The staff were incredibly friendly too. Our family of six stayed in a room with a small bath. It had the traditional Japanese ryokan feel, with a modern touch that kept it clean and comfortable. The cozy bedroom had a hotel-like feel, and even people used to hotel beds should sleep comfortably. It struck a nice balance between traditional and modern. The hot springs were soothing and fantastic. Highly recommended if you're in Tochigi.

We came for our end-of-year get-together after the usual annual physical. With few rooms and mostly adults staying, we could take it easy. We rarely shared the hot spring with other guests, meals were in a private room, and even the dishes were lovely. There's a bar too, though it's paid, and I was very happy with the stay. The ceramics used for the food and in the rooms were really cute. You can buy them, and I ended up getting an Edo Kiriko sake cup.