Ichiryukaku Honkan

The inn can be a little tricky to book since availability is first come, first served. English isn't widely used by staff, and most signs aren't in English, so you'll need a phone or translation device. It's a budget-friendly place, so don't expect help carrying your bags to your room, and be ready for a few compromises. I think it may suit more experienced travelers, but if you treat it as an adventure in a traditional Japanese ryokan, you can find plenty of nice surprises. At the price, the hot springs are high quality compared with places like Atami or Hakone, and there's a welcome drink. Guests can use karaoke rooms and private family baths for free. Dinner and breakfast are buffets, and unlimited local sake and beer with dinner are included in the room fee. English-speaking travelers often head to Atami or Hakone, but I'd strongly recommend a stay at Ichiryukaku Honkan in Kawaji Onsen at least once.

At ¥6,888, the price is hard to beat, but both the breakfast and dinner buffets were pretty bad. The guests during my visit were all seniors, maybe 70 or 80, enjoying retirement. The place has three karaoke rooms and unlimited beer and whiskey with dinner, which is the important part. It's called the area's “newest” hotel, but it didn't feel new at all. It reminded me of Circus Circus in Reno or Las Vegas, basically old.

What stood out was the scale and open feeling throughout the Ichiryukakaku Main Building. The indoor bath seemed among the largest at any Itoen Hotels, with a roomy bathing area and a view from the top floor. The fifth-floor open-air bath was wonderfully relaxing too. The buffet was the usual Itoen Hotels style, so I won't fault it, but the food was neither good nor bad. I booked at short notice because my wife asked. We'd wanted to see the Kamakura Festival at Yunishigawa Onsen, but it conflicted with mealtime, so we watched it during the day and then returned to the hotel. The Ichiryukakaku Main Building felt incredibly luxurious to me. When we were younger, it was synonymous with top-quality hotels. I arrived at reception excited, and the friendly staff and spacious lobby impressed me. Everything felt grand and luxurious. Our room was on the first floor of Yanagi-no-Yakata. It was comfortable and better than the reviews had led me to expect. It was warm, I didn't catch a cold, and I slept well. The hotel is remote, with nothing much nearby, but I think it's ideal for anyone seeking peace and quiet. Next time I'd like to come with a large group.