Capsule & Spa Grand Sauna Shinsaibashi

The sauna was the highlight for me: spacious and set up in a genuinely traditional Japanese style. The hotel itself is old, but it was quite clean, and the staff were very polite and welcoming. Most of the other guests seemed to be local Japanese people. I stayed one night and noticed a female staff member in the massage room while I was completely naked, which I wasn't sure was typical for traditional Japanese onsens. Still, this was one of the best onsen experiences I've had so far.

The facilities were what I enjoyed most. There's an onsen in the hotel with three different saunas, a huge indoor hot tub, an outdoor one, and a cold water tub. It's open 24 hours, and towels are unlimited. There are also two large lounges with bean bags and comfy chairs. The hotel is in Dotonbori, so there's plenty to do nearby, and the capsules were good and the place relatively clean. It's the best capsule hotel I've stayed in, and relatively cheap. Just keep in mind that staying past 10 am costs extra for every hour, which is a bit annoying, though most people head out in the morning anyway.

The spa is the big draw here. It's old, but the steam room is amazing, and there are several TV rooms and lounges, a VIP section, a restaurant, and private cabins for a little extra. It's in the middle of Dotonbori, a great part of Osaka with lots going on, and there are plenty of regulars. I still recommend it and would come back, though the place needs some work. At 3 pm, a couple dozen of us were all waiting on the floor to check in. That was a real turnoff. They have only about six to eight old sauna seats for all those people, and other hotels I've stayed at sometimes allow check-in as early as 2 or 3 pm to avoid a huge line. There's no obvious reason this place couldn't do that too. The cleaning teams were still working from 3 until 5 pm or even later, which was painful and unusual. When guests check in, everything, including the shared areas, should be ready. I hear you have to check out and check in every day here, which feels awkward and ridiculous and seems to create a lot of front desk crowding. The desk is hidden behind notices, barriers, and other stuff, so you can't tell if anyone is there. It should be cleared up to give guests some space. The place is very strict, and it may be hard to get things sorted out, although some staff members were kind.

Four years later, I came back and found this is now the only affordable weekend option, with tourism having priced us locals out. It was as good as last time overall, but the women's area was too hot. I was sweating in a tank top, and it made sleeping difficult. I was also surprised there was no body lotion among the amenities. On my earlier stay, I booked one of the "luxury" capsules, which gave me a little room to myself, and it was great for the price. The location is handy, near a subway station and easy to find. The four shared showers I saw on the ladies-only floor were clean, and there were all the toiletries you might need, plus pajamas and towels. It was fairly empty then, so the thin walls weren't much of a noise issue. Shoes have to stay at the door, and you can't eat in your capsule, but there's a lockable common room on the first floor with manga to read. If women's rooms don't show up when you book, wait a while. They seem to add them only a couple of months ahead.