Shinmei Onsen Yumoto Sugishima

A cozy natural hot spring with an outdoor rotenburo. This historic ryokan is worth a stay!

The inn is about 45 minutes from Gujo Hachiman, so I went sightseeing before heading back. It made for a great outing. I visited the hot spring on a weekday at the end of February, with no snow on the roads. It stays open until 3:00 PM. There were indoor and outdoor baths, and the inn had a lovely atmosphere. The changing rooms were spacious, and shampoo, lotion, milky lotion, and cleanser were provided. The indoor bath was especially nice. The tub was made from wood from a tree hundreds of years old and had a lovely scent. The warm water came from the inn's own hot spring, and I could soak for a long time. The mountain water was delicious, and the space felt roomy and comfortable.

The food made the biggest impression on me. It was my first time trying amago, a river fish, and the soy sauce grilling over an irori-yaki hearth was unusual, light, and delicious. The Hida beef was tender enough to melt in my mouth. The wild boar hotpot, the red miso soup at breakfast, and all the other dishes were refined and tasty. There was plenty of variety, and I was full to the brim. The inn has a great atmosphere, and the hot springs were amazing, even though it's about an hour and a half's drive from Gifu Station. My room was very clean and had an auto-lock, which I wouldn't have guessed from the exterior. I'd like to come back!

The distance made me hesitate, but it turned out to be a good choice. The large communal bath has an indoor pool fed directly from the hot spring source, plus an open-air bath and a private open-air bath that needs a reservation. Dinner included fresh river fish sashimi, grilled skewers, and wild boar hotpot this time. There was a wide range of dishes, served in small portions, which made for a fun, enjoyable meal. Breakfast and dinner were in private rooms with sunken kotatsu tables and heated carpets underfoot, so we could take our time and stay warm. The lobby hearth and the nails on the rug are amazing details, and the furnishings made the stay very comfortable. I'd love to come back for the hot springs and food.