Hidamari no Yu

I rarely complain, but this place was a real scam. The onsen, dormitory and staff were awful, except for the women working at reception and in the restaurant. It was the dirtiest place I’ve stayed in Japan or any other country. Disgusting.

I’ve stayed in some very cheap, dodgy hostels, but this one takes the cake. The accommodation is as poor as it gets. It’s a bathhouse for locals, which is fine, but don’t stay here unless you have no choice. I managed one night only out of sheer desperation.

We had to stay here because it was the only place available during the Takayama autumn festival. The futon was very thin and straight on the floor. They provided no sheets and had none to rent, so we were expected to sleep on the mattress liner. I can’t imagine those get washed often. The blanket looked like something from my grandmother’s closet, and we had to rent towels just to sleep on. The staff generally didn’t speak good English, though one woman was helpful. The shuttle bus was early rather than on time, so if you do stay, I’d get there 10-15 minutes ahead just in case.

This is an old-school Japanese onsen made especially for local people, and a great choice if you want the real thing. It isn’t a fancy hostel with an English-speaking host or receptionist, and you won’t see many backpackers or tourists. If you’re only going because you couldn’t find a cheap hostel, you could be in for a major culture shock. Go with an open mind and heart, though, and you might love it like Elza and I did. We miss it a lot. It was a true Japanese onsen experience. It’s a little outside Takayama city centre, but there’s a free shuttle. Check Google Maps for the timetable or ask at the Washington Hotel, right across from Takayama Train station, where the shuttle picks up and drops off.