Pension Kinoshita

The indoor onsen was good, while the outdoor one is mixed-gender. The place is run by an older couple who don’t speak English, but they have small translator devices to help communicate. If you want dinner, tell them before heading out. If you don’t hear back, bring food of your own, since there’s no nearby restaurant you can walk to. The one thing that bothered me was how dusty the room was. It was good enough for me overall.

The inn felt cozy and homely, and Mrs Kinoshita clearly takes great care of her guests. She’s a remarkable cook. Each meal seemed made with love and thoughtful little details. The Hida beef and homemade sorbets were wonderful. The indoor and outdoor onsens were among the most relaxing I visited during my three weeks in Japan. The room was bigger than I expected, and the beds were extremely comfortable. This is the kind of place where everyone might have their own experience, and it can change you a little. That’s hard to explain until you feel it yourself. If you’re curious and want something authentic, this place is for you.

The hotel is beautiful and has an outdoor onsen, but getting there is difficult without a car. Buses are infrequent, there are no taxis in the area, and there aren’t restaurants or convenience stores close by. It’s best to bring some food or reserve a meal at the hotel.

The food was the highlight for me. After more than 20 years of visiting Japan, I was impressed by the Hida beef and Okuhida flavors, from Hoba Miso and mushroom miso soup to homemade pickles and handmade sesame tofu. The elderly couple running this small pension are still serving some of the area's best meals. There are two onsen areas, open 24 hours, so it's easy to find time for a private soak. You can ask to use a bath privately or simply lock the door. The outdoor bath has separate changing spaces but is shared by both sexes. The indoor baths are pretty basic and could use more atmosphere, plus hot water showers for washing. Rooms are comfortable, though the smaller ones are really just for sleeping and don't have much storage, so large luggage needs one of the bigger rooms. Toilets are communal and divided by sex, with a shared sink area for getting ready. I hope this place carries on, and that someone continues the owners' work if they ever can't.