Nouka Minpaku Seiryuan

The host was friendly, and the grilled fish was fresh.

They don’t have showers, but the owners can point you to nearby hot springs that cost between 300 and 800 yen. I recommend booking dinner with them. We shared grilled fish and wild boar hot pot, chatting and having beer, and had a wonderful evening. The owners were incredibly friendly. They didn’t speak much English, but made a real effort to communicate with us through a translation app.

The night sky was beautiful and the air was fresh, and the whole stay was a novel experience. Still, given the breakfast, lodging, and facilities, the 20,000 yen rate for four people with breakfast felt expensive. Backpackers hoping for a cultural experience or a younger group with modest expectations might enjoy it. I wouldn’t strongly recommend it for families. We booked because holiday accommodation near Kokonoe was pricey on Agoda. The owner was incredibly friendly and showed us a lot about rural culture. He didn’t speak English, but used Google Translate to talk with us. I think Japanese speakers may be able to immerse themselves in the culture more. For our small family, there were some difficulties. The guesthouse had no bathroom facilities, which we only realized on arrival, though the Agoda listing did say so when we looked back. The toilets were clean, but there were no toiletries like toothpaste, toothbrushes, or towels. We hadn’t understood from the limited online information that this was a farm style guesthouse where most guests book dinner. We didn’t, and most nearby restaurants close at 5 PM, so we had to drive 30 minutes into town to eat and shower. That would be tiring for families with parents or elderly relatives. It’s remote, so arriving early is a good idea, especially since the mountain roads are dangerous. Beside the guesthouse is a very rural old farmhouse with a cowshed, with a historical feel. The sleeping area is separated from outside only by a wooden door. The dog barked at night, which made it hard for light sleepers to fall asleep, and large insects crawled onto the pillow. That’s countryside life, but it helps to know it’s a very old farmhouse.

The attentive owners made sure we slept comfortably, even though we spotted a few insects in this mountain home. It was my first time inside a traditional Japanese house like the ones in dramas and movies, with tatami and sliding doors. Arriving on the night of Typhoon Trami in torrential rain and strong winds made it all the more exciting. In the morning, rain and thunder greeted us, and the house felt like a museum full of centuries-old artifacts. I drew a picture to thank the owners for their thoughtful breakfast. Their birds and puppies were lovely, too. We’re Korean travelers with such good memories, and we’re grateful to the owners.