Atarashiya Ryokan - Dorogawa-onsen Hot Spring

They even packed me a breakfast bento because my early departure meant I would miss the regular breakfast, which was incredibly thoughtful. I had come from my own Shugendo training mountain at Ishizuchisan Gokuraku-ji to train at Mt. Omine, and my tight schedule required me to check out around 4 AM to start the ascent. They agreed without hesitation, even though it was much earlier than most hotels would allow. I'm deeply grateful for how exceptionally well they looked after me, and I hope to stay here again on a future ascent.

The biggest problem for us was the heavy cigarette smell. We noticed it at dinner and it lingered through the night, since the owners and staff smoke in the lobby below the rooms. The staff were kind, but some seemed too young for the job's manners and dress, like serving in a cap or greeting us while holding their phones. I feel the owners should handle welcoming guests themselves instead of leaving it to the younger staff. The ryokan itself is beautiful, and both dinner and breakfast were very good, although the rice could have been better. The Onsen water is excellent, but the baths aren't especially attractive. The small one has no view, while the large one only offers a daytime view. If smoke and the staff's manners don't bother you, I would recommend it, especially for breakfast.

Dorogawa is a magical town, and I'd love to come back. The stay in the countryside was wonderful, with outstanding hospitality and service. Everything was comfortable and well maintained, and the food was incredible. They also prepared a vegetarian meal for me with fresh ingredients from the area.

We spent 4 days and 3 nights here, and I could easily see coming back to get away from everything. From the first day, we were met with warm local hospitality. We caught the last bus, No.2, from Shimoichiguchi Station for the hour-and-a-half ride into the mountains. It was dark and cold when we arrived around 7pm in mid-April, and the guesthouse had arranged a pickup at the bus station without us asking. At the Ryokan, we were welcomed with smiles, an indoor fire stove, and little slippers to change into. Our traditional tatami room had a mini fridge, air conditioning, kettle, tables, a safe, and a small balcony for reading or relaxing. Wooden sliding doors divided the space, and there was a toilet and wash basin. Showers and baths are in the onsens downstairs. The inn is one of the town's oldest, and survived a fire that damaged several parts of town long ago. They supplied Yukata for the baths, plus wooden clogs for walking around town and cute little lanterns at night. Everyone was dressed that way, which made it feel like we'd gone back in time. Both genders have separate Onsen baths, and they switch them around 9pm, so you can try both pools. Being close to the mountains also makes this a lovely base for hiking and enjoying nature, then winding down in the onsen. Meals were included, and the breakfasts and dinners were the best authentic Japanese food. On the first evening we had wild boar steamed in a miso based hot pot, then Beef SukiYaki on day two, followed by Yakitori with chicken, wild boar, venison, and wahyu beef on day three. There were lots of side dishes and entrees with each meal, plus fruit for dessert. Breakfast brought 7-10 dishes, so nobody will go hungry. Highly recommended.