Sensou Yutagawa

The landlady and staff made the place feel so warm. They were cheerful and incredibly kind, and I appreciated that the landlady even asked whether I wanted dinner after realizing I’d booked several nights without meals. I hadn’t looked into how few places nearby serve food. There’s a yakitori place and one other evening option, but no lunch or breakfast, so I’d suggest booking a meal plan. The cats were lovely company, too. I stayed several nights on a room-only plan for a quiet workation, and I’d happily return. The room was spacious, with a large, handy refrigerator, a sink, and a water dispenser that gave hot water. The toilet was shared just outside my room, but I never ran into anyone. There were no insects, which was a big plus. The Wi-Fi was weak for online meetings, though my phone signal was fine, so I tethered for work. They cleaned daily from around 9 in the morning, going room to room. Since I was often working inside, I appreciated that they cleaned while I was elsewhere, such as in the lobby or communal bath. I also got fresh towels and yukata each day. The hot springs were wonderful, and I went three or four times a day. It was nice that I never met another guest there. The baths close for cleaning from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Shampoo, conditioner, and body soap were provided, along with cotton swabs in the changing room and something like beauty serum near the entrance. There’s also a public bath nearby, and you can borrow its key at the front desk, though the door is quite stiff. It isn’t a flashy luxury kind of place. It’s homely and comfortable, and it left me wanting to come back.

Meals on the smaller-appetite plan still came in substantial portions. A few things seemed premade, and the food may not show off many distinctive Tsuruoka or Yamagata flavors. Whether that matters probably depends on what you want from an inn. The hot spring lives up to Yudagawa Onsen: it flows directly from the source, without added water or reheating, and feels very fresh. There’s one bath for men and one for women, which was enough. The inn’s resident cat, Navi-chan, waits at a few spots to greet guests. She keeps a comfortable distance rather than being overly affectionate, so cat lovers may enjoy her. She’s a little plump and can open the automatic doors, which have now been switched to manual. The proprietress and staff seem to be of Korean descent. They’re friendly, though some small differences in sensibilities from Japan may bother certain guests. This is the kind of inn that won’t suit everyone.

Our room was comfortable, and we could stay there with our pet. We just couldn't take the pet into the large dining hall when it was time to eat.

The cats were cute, and the hot water itself was good. That was about the only positive for me. The men's bath is tiny, full with just four people, and the washing area was flooded with drainage from other bathers. It was so dirty I had to lift my feet to wash. The dinner didn't feel acceptable even for a cheap Shonai plan. The sashimi didn't seem fresh, although there was far too much food overall. The table layout felt like a school. The authentic sake was so expensive I skipped it, and I was nervous about breakfast. The service from staff other than the Korean owner was terrible. They even sold toothbrushes for 100 yen each, the sort you might expect to be free somewhere. That felt stingy. It's easy to be misled by the Google Maps photos, especially of the bath.