Hanacho-en

As of March 25, 2026: this quiet little inn has just five rooms, high up a steep slope. Children of elementary school age and older are welcome, and elementary school kids get the same menu as adults. Even the standard course comes in generous portions, but the mild seasoning means it doesn't leave you feeling unwell. Dinner starts at 6:00 PM and can be served in your room or in the dining room. Breakfast is in the dining room only, at 8:00 AM or 8:30 AM. The staff are all very kind and the service is attentive. They promptly retrieved an item I had forgotten, which was a great help. There's no shuttle, and it's about a ten-minute taxi ride. The taxi driver even recognized me and said, "You're Mr. Zuigetsu, right?" The hot spring is small and has an open-air bath. It can't be booked for private use, though they say they can accommodate guests with mobility issues. Keep in mind that stairs are the only way to reach both the rooms and bath. After bathing, the warmth lingers and keeps you cozy. The bath is open from 3:00 PM until 10:00 AM the next day, and check-out is at 10:30 AM, leaving plenty of time to soak. It's a little more expensive than other places to stay in Yugawara, but I'd recommend it if you want a peaceful, relaxing stay.

The landlady's hospitality was wonderful, and it was quiet throughout my stay, perhaps because the inn is away from the main street. There were almost no foreign tourists, possibly due to the location. My room was spacious and comfortable, with a pot of cold water that was refilled free of charge, so there was no need to buy water at a convenience store. One concern: to reach the toilet, I had to pass an object in the entrance hall, which seemed a little dangerous at night. Dinner and breakfast were elaborate, although the dinner broth had a strong shared flavor. Even with different ingredients and dishes, everything tasted alike. The dried horse mackerel at breakfast was delicious, and you could eat it whole, head included. I was surprised to have sashimi in the morning too. There are only indoor and outdoor baths, and both were pleasant. The outdoor bath had an unusual stone layout that let you sit comfortably while enjoying the view, something I hadn't seen in a while. Both baths were around 42℃. I didn't see a gender-separated bathing setup. In the hallway to the bath, there's cold water with citrus in it. Drink two glasses at once and the second is so cold it'll make your head tingle, but it's delicious. One thing to know: arriving before the 3 PM check-in doesn't help, since the door won't be open and it's hard to rest at reception. The walk up to the inn is quite steep, so watch your legs and back. I'd like to return if I can, but after being rather critical of the food, I wonder if they'll accept my request.

I spent a night at Yugawara Onsen Oyado Mizuki ♨️, a five-room hideaway partway up Mount Sakurayama. It's quiet and suited to adults seeking a calm escape, with free-flowing hot spring water and a focus on good food. The inn describes itself as a gourmet stay, and the monthly changing kaiseki menu uses seasonal ingredients to bring out their natural flavors. Dinner was served in my room over two hours, with each dish delicious. Their homemade Mizuki Tofu (Sesame Tofu) is particularly well regarded. The spring is a sodium-calcium chloride-sulfate hot spring, hypotonic, slightly alkaline, and hyperthermic. Water flows directly from the source. The chloride spring is mild and left my skin feeling smooth and warm. Men and women have separate indoor and open-air baths. From the outdoor baths, you can see the Yugawara mountain range, the moon at night, and the early morning sunrise. The inn is on a mountainside, with broad windows looking across the Yugawara-Hakone mountain range. Seasonal fresh flowers in each room add to the Japanese atmosphere. The bath has a comb, four-blade razor, cosmetics, and other amenities, but I found it a little concerning that there was no chair at the dressing table and no valuables box or locker. The proprietress, staff, and head chef were all considerate and kind, and their warmth moved me. The inn is strictly non-smoking throughout. Preschool children are generally not allowed, which helps preserve the calm, adult-oriented atmosphere. The approach is steep: from the nearest bus stop, "Sakurayama Iriguchi," there's a 300m climb to the inn. If you have trouble with your legs or lots of luggage, a taxi is recommended. It's about ten minutes by taxi from JR Yugawara Station. The address is 759-68 Miyagami, Yugawara-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa Prefecture. Check-in is at 3:00 PM and check-out at 10:30 AM. A lovely secluded place for anyone wanting to get away from daily life and do nothing for a while.

I was left with doubts about whether this inn really cares about its guests. The place struck me as far from sincere. If you're still interested, go ahead and see for yourself.