Manyou no Sato Hakuunsou

We enjoyed the peaceful setting and our room's private bath, and the complimentary 40-minute private onsen was a lovely treat. The walk into town is scenic, and Yugawara itself was a great place to visit. Everyone working there was welcoming, patient, and helpful. The food was excellent too. We hope to come back before long.

A quiet, comfortable choice for a one-night escape from Tokyo, especially as a couple. It feels like affordable luxury, with great service. Rooms are spacious even if they don't have their own onsen, and some do have private baths. I liked that the water wasn't overly hot. The shared bath is smaller than I expected, but if you go while others are at dinner, you can mostly have it to yourself. There's also a private bath you can reserve at no charge. Dinner was fantastic and nearly more than I could eat. It's seafood-heavy Japanese kaiseki, with a savory breakfast, so it may not suit people with strong food preferences. I only wish the sake pairing focused more on the excellent breweries in Kanagawa and Shizuoka. Try to arrive early for check-in, since later arrival can limit your dining time choices and access to the private bath.

The meals were a highlight: dinner arrived course by course, from small appetizers and sashimi to sushi, tempura, Kobe beef, and dessert. Each plate was beautiful, well balanced, and seasonal. Breakfast was just as lavish and tasty. Staff spoke little English, but we managed to communicate without trouble. We stayed for one night in July, at the end of a two-week trip to Japan, and it was the best part of the trip. The inn sits in the mountains, around a 10-minute cab ride from Yugawara station, which is handy if you have a JR pass. We were greeted by the woman looking after us, given tea and a snack, and our bags were taken while we checked in. Our 15.5-square-meter room had tatami, sliding doors, low dining tables and chairs, plus a smaller area to relax. The decor was simple and elegant. From the balcony we could see a babbling brook, and there was an outdoor shower and a private onsen bath fed by the hot springs. It felt secluded. It wasn't cheap, but worth every cent, and I'd happily recommend a night at Hakuunsou. A few extra things: there's a shared onsen if you want to bathe nude with other guests; toiletries and a yukata are provided, so you can pack light. I didn't spot wireless internet or access points, though I think computers or cables might be available somewhere. There's a bar and lounge we didn't use, and TVs in the rooms if you want some modern entertainment.

Clean rooms and friendly service. A nice spot for a quick onsen getaway.