Hosh Al-Syrian Guesthouse

The service was a highlight. Our waitress was professional and warm, while still giving us space to enjoy the meal. We left happy, grateful we'd had the chance to taste Palestine this way. At Fawda Restaurant, on the guesthouse grounds, our four-course lunch cost only a little more than eating at the cafes in Manger Square. The dining room felt intimate and interesting. The chef cooks with local ingredients bought that morning, and we loved that the pumpkin soup with chestnuts, slow-cooked lamb, and freekeh weren't over-seasoned. The natural flavors of the Palestinian ingredients came through. We had the meal with a Taybeh Merlot, which was very reasonably priced. Dessert was baked apple with a sweet sauce, and the flavors were amazing. For anyone who finds themselves in Bethlehem and loves food, Fawda Restaurant is a must-visit.

I haven't stayed yet at this huge, classic complex in the heart of the city. Its passages and stairways branch out from a central space, and it has a warmly welcoming, home-like feel. After sunset, the lit-up darkness gives a stay a somewhat spiritual, romantic quality. We'll stay next time and update the rating.

The best part for us was breakfast: excellent jams, hummus, eggs, local specialties, and fresh fruit, including some I'd never tried. It was brought to the table rather than served buffet-style. Sitting outside at dusk was lovely too, with plants around us, swifts calling overhead, and church bells ringing. There are some real drawbacks. This guest house in restored old buildings has many stairs to reach the rooms and restaurant, so it isn't suitable for people with physical disabilities. Breakfast is served upstairs, about 20 steps up. It's also tricky to find, down an alley roughly 75m long. Cars and taxis can only stop briefly nearby, so you'll have to carry your bags that distance. Manger Square is about a five-minute walk away. Our first room, al Ahram, was tucked into a sheltered spot and became unbearably hot and stuffy day and night, even with a cool breeze in more open areas. There was a fan, but no air-conditioning in any room. Plaster crumbled onto us and our belongings while we slept. That room had a fridge and kettle, a shower, and a bedside lamp on only one side. We switched for the next two nights to al-Lha? It was cooler and nicer, but had no fridge or bedside lights. It was beside a pleasant courtyard where you could sit outside. Neither room had an outlet near the bed, so charging a phone meant you couldn't use it from bed. Both bathrooms flooded across the floor when we showered, with very little drainage. There were enough towels that we could mop it up. Each room had one bathrobe and plenty of bottled water. Things were generally clean, though one bathroom glass was filthy, presumably meant for toothbrushes. Rawan at reception was helpful when we could find her, but reception was usually unattended and there was no way for us to contact anyone. We ended up arranging our own transport, for example, when they could have booked taxis. We'd chosen the place after reading a promising restaurant review, and there were articles at reception about its unusual, mouth-watering cuisine. But as far as we could tell, it wasn't serving dinner while we were there, and we couldn't find anyone to ask at the right times.

We had a wonderful stay at the Hosh al Syrian guesthouse, a renovated house that's 800 years old. The staff were friendly and helpful. Thanks, Rawan, Fateen, and Niven. Breakfast was fantastic.