Blancaneaux Lodge by Francis Ford Coppola

The swim in the pool below Big Rock Falls, after the hike there, was the highlight for us. The setting and facilities also made a relaxing beginning to the Belize part of our trip. My wife and I had a restful, delightful stay. The food was good, and the service had that little touch of luxury. Thanks especially to Frank, our server. Even the unusually cool, rainy weather didn’t take away from it.

The cabana was gorgeous, the beds comfortable, and the decor lovely. We came for our 20th anniversary and had a really special stay. The staff were kind and accommodating, and Bernie, the general manager, greeted us when we arrived. The grounds are lush, with tropical plants everywhere, and there’s a beautiful waterfall about an hour’s hike away where you can swim. We ate at all the restaurants and most of the food was phenomenal, especially the seafood. The garden dinner is a must. A visiting chef prepared it while we were there, which made it a real treat. Breakfast was plentiful, and they could bring it to our room. The one letdown was the ceviche at the main restaurant, which wasn’t great. The lodge provides guides for excursions. We learned that many staff have worked there for decades, and every guide we met was excellent. The ATM cave guide was a particular standout. There are a lot of stairs, so expect a workout. It isn’t accessible, and comfortable flat sandals are a much better idea than heels. Also, the cabanas are open air and have no air conditioning. Nights cool down and fans are provided, though the temperature could be an issue depending on the season. Even with those small drawbacks, I’d highly recommend Blancaneaux Lodge. It was a memorable once-in-a-lifetime experience.

We returned for lunch, as we did last year, and the food and service were every bit as good. The grounds are immaculate, with a look that reminded me of Tahiti or Bora Bora. The mountain scenery on the drive to Blancaneaux is beautiful, and the roads are in great shape. Even if you do nothing else, come for lunch.

A pretty little hideaway, though quite rustic. The rooms are dark, and there isn’t space to unpack your bags. I’d caution European visitors about the food. The meat was bland and overcooked, there weren’t enough local dishes, and the menu seemed aimed at American tastes. We struggled to find something we wanted at every meal. Italian food? Really? The Guatemalan restaurant looked bleak, like a big chicken hatchery, and its menu was very limited and bland. If we’d had the option, we would have eaten somewhere else each time.