Campo de' Fiori Brand New Apartment

I was hoping for something more authentic. Apart from one or two stalls selling fresh produce, most of them seemed aimed at tourists.

There’s a good mix here, from fruit, vegetables, cheese and deli goods to some gorgeous flowers. The long-stem roses were the biggest I’ve ever seen, and huge bunches of freesias were €4. There are touristy items too, with more clothes stalls on Sundays than at other times. You’ll find plenty of bars, cafes and ice cream nearby, though some involve a queue on Sunday. The market is lovely, and there’s always a guard around, with plenty of police on weekend nights, so it feels safe.

We stopped for an early bottle of wine and watched the locals and tourists wander past on Piazza Navona. It was a lovely spot for people-watching, and imagining the stories of people who pass briefly through your life. The waiting staff were cheerful, polite and efficient. We only wanted drinks, and they didn’t push us to order food. They brought crisps with the drinks, which was much appreciated. Like other places we visited in Rome, the toilets were the one downside: dark and poorly situated. Still, don’t let that put you off. Grab a drink, pizza or pastry and watch the world go by.

I’d rather go to a supermarket.