Le Sodole

The terraces were a highlight, with lovely countryside views, and from the property you can take a pleasant walk to San Gimignano. We spent a week as a couple in the upper apartment, which is roomy enough for two couples or a family of five. It was spotless and tidy, with a practical, well-sized kitchenette stocked with the essentials. The gas-heated hot water meant a whole family could shower in the morning. The pool had just been filled in early May and was still quite cold, though it should warm up quickly in summer. Some details listed on AirBnB seem out of date: there’s plenty of parking on the property, heating, towels, and a private entrance. Communication with the local team was very good, and we’d book again.

The place was rustic, peaceful, and quiet, but we had a terrible experience. During a two-hour visit to San Gimignano, someone broke into the apartment. Since it’s isolated at the bottom of a dirt road, we suspect someone may have watched us leave. This can happen and isn’t the operators’ fault, but there are no surveillance cameras, and the old wooden front door didn’t feel secure. One of the metal safety pins on the left half of the door was missing, so the thieves could push it open. From the operator’s replies, we saw no indication that security would be improved, so be careful.

The beautiful Tuscan setting comes with some serious drawbacks. We stayed as a family in the large upper-floor apartment of the main house, a traditional country home with classic wooden furniture, four bathrooms, and a nice large pool. The landlord is a friendly older man who appears to manage the buildings and large olive grove himself, and regularly checks on the rake. The garden, with old olive trees, cypresses, and pomegranates, is peaceful and has a lovely countryside view. There are good walks nearby, including the old Via Francigena pilgrimage route. The beds were fairly comfortable, and the location is quiet, though quite isolated. The house is old, very worn, and badly in need of renovation. It wasn’t particularly clean: there was hair and mold in the bathrooms, the kitchen was grubby, the dishwasher looked rotten inside, and the living room and kitchen smelled awful. Stink bugs were all over the house, on windows and walls, with dozens dead on the floor and more appearing. There are no insect screens on the windows or doors. The rooms were dark, which might help in summer but wasn’t great in October. Outside, it was extremely dark at night because the paths had no lighting, though the stars were lovely. Doors and windows were leaky and rickety, and the locks seemed easy to force, which felt unsafe in such an isolated spot. The property is in a dead zone: wifi didn’t work and mobile data wasn’t available either. You’ll practically need a car to get there, and the access road is a small, very bumpy dirt track that gets steep in places and is pitch dark at night. It’s marked as a road on the map, but I think it suits off-road vehicles better than regular cars. Read the fine print too, since the landlord requires a deposit and tourist tax, perhaps because San Gimignano is nearby and expensive and overcrowded.

The only thing I liked was the view. The building and grounds need a full renovation, and the apartment had a foul smell throughout. The bathrooms were cramped and poorly maintained. An old wooden bathroom door wouldn’t shut properly, and its glass window meant you could see someone sitting on the toilet. The terrace was neglected, and its rusty chairs weren’t fit to sit on. It’s in a remote area, so you’ll need your own transport. I wouldn’t recommend this property, and the conditions are far below European standards.