Hakone Suisen

The only thing I regret is not booking a longer stay. Hakone Suisen was the break we badly needed after six stressful months finishing university in Australia. It’s tucked away from other people, which made the nature escape feel just right. A front desk staff member kindly pointed us to a lovely little restaurant on our first night. Everyone was attentive and took time to explain how things worked, even with limited English. I tried the indoor and outdoor onsens five times, and four of those visits I had the place to myself. Our room had a forest view and traditional pull-out futons, which felt like a refreshing new experience. We needed some good fortune, and this place came along at exactly the right time. Thanks so much for having us.

Our group of three liked the Japanese-style room and its view of the green forest, and the simple breakfast was a good start before heading out. The inn is about a three-minute walk from Ohiradai (Hakone Tozan) station. The sidewalk on the way is tiny and felt a little sketchy, but we managed fine. There are indoor and open-air baths. Our room didn’t have a shower, so we tried the Japanese bath routine, showering in the shared area before getting into the natural spring bath. The location is beautiful and close to Hakone Yumoto Station, and the staff were very helpful.

After a week in Tokyo, the spacious room felt like a treat. I also loved the lounge, where the manager’s own record collection was playing. I spent a lovely evening with a craft beer from the vending machine and My Bloody Valentine and Miles Davis. The onsen baths were fantastic. I was nervous about using them as a foreigner, but the staff explained the customs and rules really well. They were friendly throughout: my bags had been taken to my room by the time I checked in, after I’d left them there earlier, and when rain hit at checkout, someone lent me a spare umbrella. Breakfast had pastries, coffee, tea, and soup. The hotel is a five-minute walk from the station, which made getting around Hakone easy. I don’t usually write reviews, but this was a highlight of my Japan trip so far. I’d definitely return.

The indoor and outdoor baths were wonderful, and the service was really attentive. This stylish, beautifully designed inn is kept in meticulous shape, in a quiet spot close to transport. The owner might be the softest-spoken punk rocker ever.