Kijitei Hoeiso

We added this ryokan late to our trip and it ended up being the highlight. The onsen was so good we went four times during our one-night stay, and being able to book a private evening session meant our family could bathe together. The food was excellent, high quality, and beautifully presented, though quite different from what our Western palates were used to. The grounds and traditional decorations were lovely, and the staff were friendly and helpful. We felt relaxed and pampered the whole time. We’d absolutely go back.

The outdoor onsen beside the creek was our favorite, and the grounds were breathtaking, especially with the cherry blossoms out. The kaiseki dinner and breakfast were delicious, beautifully arranged, and huge, so come hungry. Service was friendly and top-notch. The rooms are traditional, and it looked like some were being updated while we were there. The futons were very comfortable, and we enjoyed the sitting area looking outside. There’s a TV and phone in the room, though we didn’t use either. We stayed one night as a break after several days in Tokyo, and it was perfect.

The bathing was a real highlight. The indoor baths are spacious for the small number of guests, and I was alone there two of the three times I went. You can look outside while you soak. The outdoor bath runs hotter, so it may take some getting used to. There’s no shower out there, so you have to wash in the indoor bath first, get dressed, and walk through the garden. It’s beautiful in daylight and at night, with signs and lanterns to guide you. Soaking outdoors to the sound of crickets and the nearby river felt magical. I’d get up early for another soak before breakfast, and maybe one after too if you’re quick. Remember, you bathe naked in both the indoor and outdoor baths. The meal is a lovely multi-course dinner featuring local food. Since “kiji” means pheasant in “kijitei,” quite a few dishes included pheasant, which was unusual for us. The menu changes with the chef and season. Our server, Min, a wonderful Vietnamese woman who spoke Japanese and English, explained each course and how to enjoy it. Beer, sake, and wine are available to order. The dining room is shared, but staggered dinner times can make it feel quite private. Breakfast is also multi-course. Staff were second to none. They were waiting outside when our taxi arrived, and everyone spoke decent English. You can reserve a private 30-minute outdoor bath session for the people staying in your room, but nobody told us at check-in. We’d seen it on Google reviews and, I believe, on the hotel and booking websites, so be sure to ask when you’re shown around. It’s a traditional hotel and some parts are getting dated, with marks on the walls and musty smells. We saw renovation work underway. Some Showa-era design choices feel out of place: the washroom had nice wood paneling and a modern toilet, while the large shower and bath looked like luxury from the 1980s. We didn’t use them, since we were at an onsen, but they affected the overall impression. For the price, about 30,000 JPY per person per night when I reviewed it, you get a huge, suite-sized room by Western hotel standards, a yukata to wear around the property, kaiseki dinner and breakfast, and a private onsen. There are only 18 rooms, so book well ahead. It’s a way out of the town center, but worth the trip. From Hakone-Yumoto, the ryokan shuttle is about 100 JPY and runs least often, the city bus is about 270 JPY and more frequent, and a taxi is around 1,100 JPY. If you miss the bus, a taxi may be your only option. Our one-night stay at Kijitei was nearly perfect, and I’d recommend it to anyone looking for a ryokan in Hakone. I hope management keeps up the good work and puts some more attention into modernization. Book early, read up on onsen etiquette, wear the complimentary yukata around the property, and come with an open mind about the food. You may be surprised.

Our Superior View Room for two was enormous, with plenty of space, and had the same lovely mountain view as the lobby. We found Kijitei Hoeiso through the Chase travel portal because we wanted a traditional ryokan. Its remote setting let us enjoy Mount Hakone away from the bustle. On arrival, staff stored our outdoor shoes and offered slippers. We sat in the lobby with tea and a light snack. Dinner and breakfast both focused on pheasant. Most dishes were delicious, though a few didn’t suit our Western palates. We finished everything anyway. For our one-night stay, we got a reserved time for the outdoor hot spring, around 10:30 pm, and it was lovely to have it to ourselves. At other times the baths are public, separated for men and women. There’s also an indoor bath, and we tried both settings. The employees were very friendly and spoke enough English for us to manage without a translator. There’s a $3 spring bath fee at checkout. As we left, staff came out to wave and bow us on our way. I’d highly recommend Kijitei Hoeiso for a traditional ryokan experience in Japan.