Miyajima Morinoyado / Vacation STAY 68908

It’s a quiet, good-value hotel with a nice public bath and Japanese-style breakfast. My mother, who’s 70, and I had a very peaceful stay away from the tourist crowds. The staff went far beyond what I expected when I lost my passport on Miyajima and returned to the hotel to look for it. When it wasn’t there, a staff member drove me to the police station, stopping at places I’d visited along the way to check. He waited while the police brought over the passport, which had been handed in elsewhere, bought morning tea for my mother and me, and then dropped me at the ferry terminal. He was stunningly kind, patient, and friendly.

The location is quiet, away from the main drag, right by nature walks and a spot where deer hang out. It’s directly opposite Miyajima Aquarium, though, so you can hear the sea lions through the night. Staff were helpful, and check-in and checkout were straightforward. The traditional-style rooms are large, but a bit worn, with scuffs on the walls, and would benefit from an upgrade. You lay out the futons yourself. Breakfast and dinner are included and have a lot of seafood; they ask about allergies and intolerances at check-in. The public bath is large, though it isn’t technically an onsen since it isn’t heated geothermally.

We loved this stay, especially because the hotel was one of the few on the island that could accommodate a vegan or vegetarian diet. I called a few days before check-in to let them know, and they were incredibly accommodating. The full-board rate was expensive, but seemed fair to me with the traditional kaiseki-style dinner included. Wandering around Miyajima at night was magical too. We chose a spacious Japanese-style room, with a little snug overlooking the forest and beach, set apart from the rest of the room by traditional sliding doors. They provide yukatas and slippers to wear around the hotel, which were lovely and comfortable. The style is very traditional, maybe dated to some, but I thought it added to the authentic feel.

I really liked staying here. The staff were friendly, and the meals deserve a compliment too. I had vegetarian dietary restrictions, and the menu they prepared was honestly amazing. We loved sleeping on futons, though they also have rooms with regular beds. It was nice to walk around the island early or late, when there were hardly any other tourists besides us.