Izu-Nagaoka Hotel Tenbo

I still find myself thinking about little moments from this stay, even a month later. The hospitality, friendly staff, meals and onsen were all wonderful, and it became one of my best travel experiences. We came to relax and enjoy the hot springs, and Izunagaoka was a good fit. There are fewer attractions than in Hakone, but it’s much more affordable and felt like better value and quality. It’s easy to reach from Mishima by train, then a local bus drops you right outside the hotel. Mishima itself is worth exploring for its historic shrine, Mt Fuji viewpoints and local specialties, especially Unagi. A staff member came out to welcome us as we approached, and check-in was quick and smooth. I paid at the property, about 56,000 yen for one night in a room with an onsen and two meals. Since the private onsen room wasn’t booked that day, they generously offered us 50? minutes of use for free. The room was surprisingly spacious, clean and bright, with large sliding windows that opened fully onto a mountain view. Little details made us feel looked after: a thermos of iced water, a kettle already filled with hot water, and welcome sweets to have with green tea. The private hot spring was the standout. It was the biggest we’ve had, easily roomy enough for two to stretch out. The water felt lovely and, as far as I remember, was pure spring water, not diluted or filtered. The temperature was just right and could be adjusted with hot or cold water. On a breezy spring day, soaking while looking at the mountain was so relaxing. The bed and duvet were unbelievably comfortable. The mattress was firm with a soft topper, which worked especially well for my dodgy back, and I slept like a baby. They also provided Yukata in different sizes, plenty of towels and extra pillows. Dinner and breakfast both included set courses alongside a buffet of side dishes, salad, soup and drinks. I hadn’t expected much for the price, but everything was delicious, especially the sashimi. I’ve often been disappointed by sashimi at ryokan, even near the coast, but this was among the best I’ve ever eaten. The tuna melted in my mouth with intense umami, and they served it with fresh wasabi from Shizuoka. The whole meal was phenomenal and filling. There’s a foot bath outside the public bath, next to a milk vending machine. We bought jars of milk and soaked our feet at night while looking at the stars. My English isn’t good enough to describe everything, but this trip gave me some of my best memories, and I still daydream about it. I’d definitely recommend a visit when you can, especially booking a room with a private onsen.