Sagaeya Ryokan

The food was delicious, especially the imoni. It's handy having a Komareo (a local version of Don Quijote) and a 7-Eleven nearby, too. The hot spring comes straight from the source with mineral deposits. It's very hot, so you have to let it cool, but it warms you right to the core. I really like this place. The inn has a real time-slip-to-the-Showa-era feel.

The breakfast was simple rather than fancy, but there were lots of homemade dishes, and it was tasty and filling. I was surprised they brought it right to my room. The rooms themselves are old but reasonably cared for, with no major issues. Mine had an amusing lock added to the sliding doors, though there aren't many outlets, as is common in older houses. The toilet and washroom are shared down a corridor, and the floor creaked enough that I sometimes crept along like a ninja 🤣. The place is retro and lovely, built up the mountainside with lots of stairs and hallways. It feels like a maze and could be a movie set. The bath is also old, and the ceiling, walls and washbasin are a little neglected, but still part of its charm. The water is free-flowing and constantly bubbling up. It felt around 43-44°C, and apparently they reduce the flow because otherwise it would be too hot. It reminded me of Iizaka Onsen in Fukushima Prefecture. I found it a rare, charming inn with a Showa-era atmosphere. There weren't insects in my room, though they gathered around the outside lights. If you want a clean and tidy inn, this might be a bit much. Cash only 💰

It had Wi-Fi, and I could relax on the tatami. The breakfast came with a range of delicious side dishes, and the shower pressure was fine. The spring water was hot, but you could cool it by adding water, so bathing felt great. The place left me with the feeling of staying at a relative's house, and I won't forget it.

We stayed one night over Golden Week, and the Yamagata-style breakfast with local wild vegetables and pork miso soup was filling. Dinner isn't included, but there are plenty of restaurants a 10-15 minute walk away, and you can get bento boxes at the supermarket (?) called "Wakuwaku Komaleo," about five minutes away. It's an old inn with a 1960s time-travel feel, as the photos suggest. Some floors are warped and the stairs uneven, which can throw off your balance. Still, they've put air conditioning and air purifiers in each room, a thoughtful touch. The bath is small with few washing areas, and the water is so hot it's hard to stay in for long, so I doubt it gets too crowded. The facilities' age is part of the appeal if you enjoy that sort of thing.