Onsenminsyuku Kosakaya

I was tired after my Kumano Kodo trip and a little wary after reading some reviews, but this turned out to be a perfectly comfortable, no-frills hotel. The hosts were very friendly and helpful, explaining everything in English well enough. My room was spacious, with its own shower and toilet, plus a yukata and towels at no extra charge. The mattress and pillow were quite thin, but I still slept fine. Dinner was plentiful, had lots of variety, and every dish was delicious. The onsen was more like a big bathtub, but it was hot and relaxing. Since I had to leave before breakfast, they packed flavored rice balls, tea, and fruit for me. They also helped arrange a taxi so I could visit Nachi Falls before the first bus and get back for my 8:49am train. I’m really happy I stayed here.

At this price, I expected a lot better. The hotel felt overpriced, there was no shower available in the morning, breakfast was disappointing, and the mattress, pillow, and blanket were very thin. Because of my back pain, I asked for a couple more and had to pay 1.000 yen for each extra one. That felt disappointing and like poor service. If the price were lower, I could have accepted all of this.

Breakfast and dinner are plentiful, with typical Japanese dishes. The inn has two buildings, both with Japanese tatami rooms that are roomy, clean, and equipped with air conditioning and TVs. The secondary building’s restrooms are a bit small, while the ones in the main building are large and modern. There are also big Japanese-style bathing rooms separated for women and men. It’s a lovely place in a quiet neighborhood, just a three-minute walk from the port.

The owners are friendly, but for what the facilities cost, I’d rate the accommodation below average. Meals include fish prepared raw, fried, and other ways; some dishes struck me as a little too salty and suited to having with beer, as Japanese guests tend to do. The sound carries badly between rooms. Doors opening and locking, and people walking down the corridor in the provided Crocs to use the toilets, were noisy. I’d read the reviews and brought earplugs. Toilets and washbasins are unisex, so bear that in mind if that makes you uncomfortable. There are two shared bathrooms, with the larger one shown on the website. The smaller has just two shower stations and one basin, and they switch which one is for men and women each day. If your stay falls on a day when your gender uses the small one, it can get crowded or involve a wait at busy times. It’s so cramped that opening the door to the bath area can hit the person washing at the station nearest the entrance. There are only two stations there anyway. For the same price, you could find better value in Kyoto or Osaka, with your own bathroom, towels, and yukata or pajamas.