Chuzenji Kanaya Hotel

The little coffee and tea corner was a lovely place to sit with a hot drink and read or scroll on my phone. Meals are presented in a fancy way, though the food itself was just satisfactory. The hotel sits right by the lake, and top-floor rooms get a decent view. It's a historic place, so the rooms and facilities show their age, but they're kept in decent condition. The onsen is nice too, though take care on the stairs and rocky path to the public bath area.

The breakfast was a well prepared Western plate served at the table, with eggs, meat, breads, butter, jam, and coffee or tea. There was also a Japanese bento for an extra 1,100 yen, but we missed the 8 PM ordering cutoff and couldn't try it. One odd thing: the room doors had wireless key card sensors, but everyone got a metal key with a wooden fob. It seemed the card system had been out of use for a long time. We stayed two nights in early March, in the low season. The hotel is dated, though the solid wood construction has a look and feel that's growing on me. Our room was a good size and clean and comfortable. The stated 30 square meters likely includes the big wooden balcony, which may not be useful in winter. The temperature was just right in the cold weather. We noticed many rooms being extensively refurnished as we left, which was encouraging. The onsen is reached by a fully enclosed glass walkway, a nice touch against the cold. I liked the outdoor bath's design and temperature. There was no mountain view, but we could see the stars at night. In my opinion, it's a good place and good value.

Service from everyone was excellent, and the hotel has an onsen with indoor and outdoor pools. There isn't a laundry room, but there are two coin-operated massage chairs. Every room faces the lake. They serve French food, with Japanese breakfast as an option. They told us Einstein and President Grant had stayed there, but those guests were at the sister property, Kanaya Nikko in town. The historic building and food are appealing, but the rooms feel old and worn. The bed and pillows were hard and lumpy, and the carpets and curtains looked 30 years old. Soft furnishings seem like an easy thing to replace. The bathroom had no heater or double glazing, so it was cold. There's a fireplace in reception and the lounge, but it wasn't lit even on New Year's Eve. Having it on would've added warmth and atmosphere.

My wife and I had a great stay. We really enjoyed the delicious food, and the waiter was friendly and happy to chat. He knew a lot about wine and even about the wild animals in the area.