Kinugawaonsen Hananoyado Matsuya

The views were incredible, and the private bath was wonderful. The traditional rooms were beautiful too, and the ryokan style has real appeal, though some areas looked and smelled musty. We booked through bookings.com, and I'm not sure whether the third party contributed to the problems. Getting there and finding the place among the crumbling buildings was difficult. On arrival everything was dark, and we had to ring twice before anyone came. It's also not near the usual tourist sights. The biggest problem was food: none of the four hotel restaurants could serve us because we hadn't booked meals ahead, and there was nowhere nearby at 8pm in this small town. We were initially turned away. After we came back still trying to find food, one staff member kindly helped, first with a map and then by driving us to a restaurant. That assistance came after a difficult day and is why I've updated this review.

The outdoor onsen and the surrounding nature were lovely. The hotel is near the train station in Nikko, though quite far from the main attractions, so a car may suit visitors better. We'd booked two nights but left after just one. There was a strong musty smell, especially in the lobby, and the place felt old and poorly cared for. We even had mosquitoes in our room. Since we hadn't ordered breakfast in advance, staff told us it wouldn't be available either morning, which was disappointing. When we checked out early, reception didn't ask why, which felt strange. The view and onsen were highlights, but the hotel's condition brought the stay down.

Hana no Yado felt like the kind of small, family-run Ryokan I dream of staying in. From the welcome when we drove up to the sweets the doorman offered as we left, the hospitality made it unforgettable. It's right by the river, and you can hear the water roaring from the outdoor onsen. Dinner and breakfast were beautifully presented, including fresh rice cooked slowly in front of us. For the price, it was exceptional. I should have kept this place to myself.

The staff were so kind, even helping ship our luggage from Nikko station after a mishap meant we couldn't get there in the middle of the day. Meals were filling and very nice, served by lovely staff in our private dining room. I also liked the koi pond and the access down to the riverbed. We stayed in a futon room with tatami mats, and it really felt like stepping back in time. Green tea and WiFi were provided, along with a kimono to wear around the hotel and to the onsen. Some may find the place old, but I thought that added to its timeless charm. The onsen was clean, with towels in the room, soaps, showers, and a tidy place to leave clothes. The water was clear, and the outdoor bath by the river was peaceful, with the rush of water nearby. This is outside central Nikko, but the extra train ride after visiting the national park was worth it. Kinugawa Koen station is about a 2-5 minute walk away. It made for a lovely break from Tokyo, with a sense of old Japan and some modern comforts. I'd spend about two days here to relax in the countryside away from the city's bustle.