Hijiori Onsen Matsuya Gourmet Inn

We spent one night here. The staff were nice and the food was excellent. The hot spring had a slight chlorine smell.

The cave onsen was splendid, and the staff were so warm and friendly. It's a charming, unusually distinctive onsen/ryokan, and one of the most memorable I've been to in a while. It's a bit out of the way, but this secluded gem is worth the detour. Do yourself a favor and stay here.

I stayed in January 2026. The cooking lived up to its reputation: breakfast and dinner were delicious and there was so much I wondered if I'd finish it all. I couldn't use the cave bath because it was under renovation. If you have time, I also recommend Hijiori's upper public bath. It normally costs 400 yen, but the inn can give you a voucher that brings it down to 100 yen. A few things could be improved. The indoor bath closes for cleaning from 9:00 to 1:00 and again from 18:00 to 19:00. Since checkout is by 10:00, I wish it stayed open until 9:30. I eat slowly, and staff came to collect the trays from people who had finished while I was still eating. That part was fine, but when I left the dining area, the sliding doors had been left open and cold winter air was coming in. It made me feel rushed to finish. The fried trout was also a little overcooked.

The cave bath was being renovated during this visit, so I couldn't try it. I'd like to come back after the work is done. This was my second stay at Hijiori Onsen, and on a snowy night the reinforced concrete Matsuya stayed warm enough that I could sleep with the heater off. The bath was spacious too. Even with four people in it, we didn't feel cramped, which was a pleasant surprise after expecting small baths at Hijiori Onsen. The inn's signature food was delicious, with as many locally sourced ingredients as possible. It was simple, comforting cooking, though the seasoning was a bit salty, as you'd expect in the Tohoku region. There was free morning coffee in the lounge by reception, plus free ice cream after bathing. Those little touches made the stay feel special.