Tounomine Kanko Hotel

Set beside a lovely shrine and a beautiful forest, this place feels like a hotel from another time. The staff were so kind and helpful when we ran into technical problems on our trip. They made us feel welcome and turned our stay into something special.

Looking out at Tanzan Shrine from the breakfast room was a real treat. You get to eat while taking in a historic landscape that’s hard to find elsewhere. The hotel sits deep in the mountains at a historic site, and the building was beautiful, with attentive service throughout. Everyone was friendly, including a Burmese staff member who spoke Japanese fluently and could read a little. At night, watch out for deer if you’re driving there. Dinner was Yoshitsune hotpot with pork, chicken, beef, duck, and wild boar. I was happy to try all of it. The duck was delicious, and the boar was a bit tough to chew, which seems to be the nature of that meat. It made for a special meal. I’d like to come back in 15 or 20 years.

Dinner here is a feast, especially if you love game meat. There was pork, chicken, duck, and wild boar, along with plenty of vegetables simmering in the pot. Sashimi and small side dishes came too, and the steamed specialty called Amethyst was delicious. There’s a full selection of alcoholic drinks to go with it. Breakfast also showed care with the ingredients: instead of the thin Chilean trout that’s common these days, the grilled salmon was a thick slice of lightly salted sockeye salmon. The room was spacious, with a raised veranda that gave it a luxurious feel, and the toilet was clean and inside the room. From the window you can see the forest at Tanzan Shrine. The bath had a faint gypsum smell and seemed to be a simple hot spring. At around 42°C, it was comfortable, gentle on the skin, and warmed me up surprisingly well. The service felt natural and polished, while still being kind and comfortable. This tourist hotel is in the mountains of Asuka, next to Tanzan Shrine, where Prince Naka no Ōe and Fujiwara no Kamatari are said to have spoken in ancient times. The inn has a long history, though there are also new buildings with beautiful, modern interiors. A framed 1967 calligraphy piece by Ryōtarō Shiba decorates the historic building. The shrine’s good energy seems to surround the hotel, making it feel auspicious. I was lucky to visit Asuka and Tanzan Shrine in the Year of the Snake, 1380 years after the Isshi Incident. It’s a wonderful inn, and I’d like to return.

We were traveling as a pair, and the inn was very accommodating. I’d planned to skip dinner, but there weren’t any restaurants nearby, so I called two days ahead to ask if they could arrange a meal. I was grateful they could. The food was delicious, and the portions were enormous. I managed to finish it all myself, though, lol. Our Japanese-style room had been renovated, and the new unit bath was clean. The bathroom outside the room where we ate dinner still had an old-fashioned look, lol. The staff were fun to talk with and shared lots of stories, so we had a great time. The inn is right in front of Tanzan Shrine, where Prince Nakano Oe and Nakatomi Kamatari, known for the Taika Reforms, are said to have plotted against the Soga clan. I’d definitely want to stay here again when visiting Nara.