Katsurada

I was here for one night, and the Japanese dinner and breakfast were among the best I’ve had in Hokkaido. The room was clean and comfortable. If you’re visiting this part of the island, it’s worth checking this place out.

A nice little place with a relaxing atmosphere. The staff were helpful and the bath was clean. The walls are a bit thin, though, and it felt somewhat expensive when breakfast wasn’t included.

The evening meal was a highlight. I chose the “Shiretoko Chuzen” plan and tried grilled Ezo venison for the first time. It was lean and a little tough, but unlike the Ezo venison cutlet I’d had at Shiretoku Roadside Station, it didn’t have that fishy or animal smell. I was happy to eat it with just salt. The scallop hotpot, boiled shrimp, and salmon grilled with shio-koji were all delicious. The tuna and octopus sashimi were good too, though one white fish piece was watery and bland. I still wonder what it was, and should have asked. Breakfast was a Japanese set meal with only a few side dishes, and coffee was available. They offer transport to and from the bus terminal. Our second-floor Japanese-style room looked out over the ocean. We could enjoy the sunset after checking in, with a little drifting ice on the water adding to the travel mood. The building has a cozy, historic pension or lodge feel, with wooden floors. Check-in was done on a tablet, and the staff were helpful. Toothbrushes and razors were provided. The shared toilet and sink were at the back of the floor, since there was no toilet or sink in the room. The indoor bath was lukewarm that day, while the open-air bath was hot. The indoor bath might fit two people, and the outdoor one about three. There were only three seats in the washing area. Even with the doors and windows shut, a draft came from somewhere and made the bathroom cold. I had to wash while shivering. The shower pressure was weak. Shampoo, conditioner, and body soap were supplied, but there was no facial cleanser or foam, and no sauna. In the changing room there was a basket, but no locker or lock, so I had to leave valuables in my room. It also wasn’t clear where to leave the room key, which raised a security concern. There were no amenities in the changing room.

The food was genuinely good, and the cheerful chef and kind staff made dinner feel relaxed. The restaurant never seemed busy, even at breakfast, and we were very happy with the meal. We could sit on the terrace with coffee and look out over the seaside. The room was uncomfortably hot. The sunset-facing location means strong afternoon sun pours in, and the heat seems to stay trapped, perhaps because of the building’s Hokkaido-style construction. There’s no air conditioner, just a fan and cooler, so we needed the windows and doors open to cool things down. But privacy and insects made it hard to leave them open, and this was the most stressful part of staying here. I knew in advance there was no bathroom in the room, but it was still inconvenient. Getting ready in the morning meant going back and forth to the sink. There were no cups in the room, so I brought a paper cup from the sink, but it quickly went soggy and wasn’t much use for slowly drinking something cold. The women’s restroom was nicely renovated and comfortable, but I had to use its sink. The bath area was small, with only three washing stations, so you might need to wait depending on when you go. Since there are only a limited number of guests, that may not happen often. There were also two unit shower rooms in the changing room. The bath shower temperature kept fluctuating, so those may suit you better if that bothers you. I only got to use the open-air bath at night, so I missed the ocean view. You could see the sea through a small window, but the dining building was right in front, so it didn’t feel very open.