Moriaki Ryokan

The tatami beds were soft and warm, and the traditional food was awesome. The host was friendly and elegant. It's an authentic Japanese-style hotel, and the onsen was great, though privacy concerns mean the views are mostly blocked.

The buffet breakfast on the fifth floor was an unbelievable spread, with Japanese and Western dishes that seemed to go on forever. Everything was delicious, and the big windows look down over the valley and toward snow-capped mountains. Dinner was kaiseki style. The inn has been operating for more than a hundred years, and its entrance is understated, but inside the hospitality and attention to detail are high quality. It was super clean, and a gentleman spoke excellent English. After check-in, a couple of staff hurried over to help with our luggage. There are Western- and Japanese-style rooms. Even the basic rooms are spacious, with a separate modern shower and toilet, plus another area with a dressing table, fridge, and ready-to-use hot water pot. The famous "step street" starts a few steps from the entrance, with souvenir shops, small restaurants, and several shooting game rooms. At the top are a temple and a couple of steep paved trails.

We felt safe during our stay because coronavirus measures were in place. The location and amenities were great, but the hospitality was what really stood out. The food was sumptuous, and there were English-speaking staff. We only regret staying one night, and will definitely come back.

The food was poor in both quality and quantity, and other things felt overpriced. A cup of drip coffee cost 500. The rooms were small and old. Most of the staff didn't seem to know much about the hotel or be very helpful, and they didn't seem well trained.