Kawayu Onsen Fujiya

We were disappointed by the service. It felt like the staff didn’t care much. When we asked where to get bottled water, they sent us outside late at night to a vending machine. Back inside, we noticed another vending machine elsewhere in the hotel. At breakfast we asked for coffee and were told to walk to another machine to buy some. Our room wasn’t clean, with strange stains on the walls, and we woke up to a giant spider just outside the door. The place may once have been spectacular, but now it’s in disrepair.

When the river is low, you can borrow a shovel from reception and dig your own private onsen where the hot water bubbles up. You can also swim in the river’s crystal-clear water, depending on the flow. We stayed in a room with a private onsen and a meal package, and it was well worth it. The natural surroundings are beautiful, the food was exceptionally good and very filling, and special thanks to the ladies in the dining area.

We stayed one night during our Kumano Kodo trek, and the room was large and comfortable, with beautiful river views and a shower. The hotel is a little older, but the amenities and staff were great, and the price felt in line with the area. I’d arranged a vegetarian dinner and breakfast in advance, and they were lovely. Tattoos were allowed in the onsen, whose outdoor bath was especially peaceful. The coin-operated laundry was a bonus. Given how remote it is, I don’t think you could ask for more.

We went on September 8 with my husband and a friend. The meals were delicious, the rooms comfortable, and the hot springs fantastic. You can borrow sandals and a shovel to dig your own hot spring bath beside the river. Bring swimwear, since it’s right by the roadside across from the hotel.