Watarase Onsen Hotel

The only good part was the private onsen. When we first went into the room it smelled really bad, and there were a few bugs. The bed was very uncomfortable, as was the rice-filled pillow. The AC made noises like it was cooling all of Africa, but it didn’t cool the room at all.

I liked the rooms and private onsens, but come prepared with food. Unless you’re really into traditional Japanese cuisine, you won’t find anything warm and appealing at the restaurant or souvenir shop. There’s no coffee before 9, none in the rooms, and no bread, eggs, or other “global” options on the menu or in the store. Staff don’t speak English and weren’t very helpful. It’s overpriced in general.

The private hot springs were beautiful, and the staff were truly kind and respectful. The room suited me and my friends well.

It was the most expensive hotel of our four-week trip, so we were excited to stay, but after hiking 22km in freezing rain and light snow, we were already disappointed. That probably colored how we felt, and this was the option chosen for us after cheaper places filled up. The hotel seemed like a classic old place that hadn’t moved on since the 1970s. No staff spoke English, and there were no English signs. It felt like a traditional Japanese onsen hotel with no interest in foreign tourists. We paid $450/night and then found there was no shower or bathroom in our room, or even in the hotel. We had to walk 50m down the street in 0° to reach the onsen and showers. The onsen was nice but not exceptional. You can choose between the segregated public baths, which have lots of pools and simple fast food available outside, or private outdoor pools that you can share with a partner. Our first Kiseki banquet was awkward and embarrassing. Nobody warned or explained that the only option was the full multi-dish meal, when we wanted something warm and simple. Staff didn’t explain what went with what or what we were eating. I think they managed not to roll their eyes in front of us. It may have been intended as a culinary treat, but with no explanation, welcome, choice, help, or warmth, it felt like a waste of time and money. Breakfast was the same deal. The futons were the most uncomfortable we’ve experienced so far, and the lobby carpet was unbelievably kitsch and garish. For old-school Japanese onsen fans, it’s probably lovely. Walkers and foreigners should save considerable $$ and go elsewhere. The best feature is that it’s near the bus stop.