Kinosaki Onsen Ryokan Oyado Hakusan

We couldn't speak any Japanese, but that wasn't a problem since at least one staff member was always around who spoke excellent English. The service was unbelievably good. They tried to handle every request and even thought ahead. When we said we'd need to leave early, they arranged an earlier breakfast seating and a ride to the train station, without us asking. They treated us like royalty, which I'd never experienced anywhere else. Dinner was brought to our room as a full spread, around ten courses by my count. Such a great meal and experience. The WiFi, though, dropped out three times while I was writing this. There are five private hot spring rooms with different themes, available on a first come, first served basis. We always found at least one free. They're great for couples or families who want to bathe together, since the public baths separate men and women. You also get a card for free entry to the public springs. Goshono-yu, with the waterfall, is a good one to visit. It's about a ten-minute walk from the station, and the farthest public spring is around 25 minutes away, though there's a shuttle to take you there.

The owner seemed self-centered, and there were a lot of communication problems. The price is high for the level of hospitality, and the crab was lower quality than at the Kani Douraku chain, which offers better value. It isn't worth staying here if you expect a global standard hotel. I'll never stay again.

It's a long way from the train station, but there's a free shuttle. The five private-use hot springs are available at certain times, which was really nice for our family with children.

This was my first time at a ryokan, and at first the yukata and geta felt a bit strange. Once I got used to them, though, it all made sense. Everyone did their best to make us happy, and the food was incredible. I hope to come back.