Goshima Ryokan

Our stay at Goshima was a highlight of the trip. It’s a lovely traditional guest house, and Taka went out of the way to help my friend and me with our heavy bicycles in the rain.

The owner was so thoughtful, and the inn felt cozy and satisfying. I’d definitely stay again. I also think Goto Ryokan is a big part of why Usuki feels like such a wonderful place to visit.

That dinner really showed me why Usuki is known as a city of gastronomy. The local ingredients were excellent, and there was plenty to eat. They played a gentle mix of bossa nova and Showa-era pop, perhaps chosen with the guests in mind, a small touch that meant a lot. After my morning walk around Usuki Castle, I only needed a shower, but they’d filled the big tub with lots of hot water for me, which I appreciated. The owner even came out to see me off, and I left promising I’d return when the season was nice. It was a memorable stay, thank you very much. I chose the inn after getting a good feeling from its reviews. It’s easy to find and about a five-minute walk from the station, though coming from the town center can be confusing. The narrow streets and layout have the feel of a castle town. It has the character of a historic inn, while the inside is clean and stylish, with the owner’s thoughtfulness visible throughout.

Breakfast was incredibly good, and even though I missed my chance to try dinner, I’m sure it’s delicious. The building is a little old, but the guest rooms are very clean. There’s no night curfew, so going out for drinks is fine. After checking in, you can use the private bath and relax, even if you return late. It doesn’t really feel like a hot spring. I overslept on checkout day, and they were very understanding. I’d like to stay again next time I’m in Oita.