Shoraiso

The Kaiseki dinner was extraordinary, and the Bento breakfast was excellent. We stayed one night on vacation in an exclusive room at Shoraiso, with a private in-room onsen looking out at the snow. It felt like a typical Japanese Ryokan with the feel of a 6 star hotel. The decor was lovely and modern, the room amenities were superb, and the butler’s warm hospitality was a memorable surprise for my wife and me.

Shoraiso sits across the street from its sister inn, Yoroduya Ryokan, which dates back to the Kansei, Edo period. It’s known for the large wooden Momoyama onsen, built with traditional temple architecture without nails, and a garden open-air bath with a stone lantern and pagoda. In the area, you can visit Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, 5 km away, or Shiga KogenShiga Kogen, 14 km away. There’s also skiing and the Kitashinano wine valley train. This is a historic hot spring town, known for 1,350-year-old “long-life” spring water. Shoraiso was built as a detached building for Yorozuya, a historic inn in Yudanaka Onsen dating to 1789. The sukiya-style building was designated a national tangible cultural property, then destroyed by fire in 2021 and rebuilt three years later. The flower-shaped windows and furnishings from the old Shoraiso have been reproduced. There are only five rooms. I stayed in Kiku, and each room has a private open-air bath with free-flowing hot spring water. This past weekend there was a small snowy white garden too. Having dinner in my room’s dining area meant I could drink as much sake as I wanted. The dishes were delicious and exquisite, and service was excellent throughout. I loved the two graceful women on staff, especially the older one, who reminded me of my mom. It was $1150 for two, half board. The hotel and room are gorgeous, and my only minor gripe was the excavator doing roadworks on the other side of the garden when I arrived. I decided not to use my room’s garden onsen right away. Otherwise, a flawless experience.

The hosts were kind and attentive, and dinner and breakfast looked almost like works of art. The flavors were more subtle than I personally like, but the presentation and seasonal details were thoughtful and beautiful. In the evening, there are complimentary drinks and small snacks near the lobby, plus a washi paper bookmark activity that makes a sweet souvenir. I stayed at Shoraiso in winter earlier this year, and it’s one of my most memorable ryokan stays. Everything felt new, smelled gently of wood, and was spotless and well maintained. Our room was spacious and peaceful, with lovely design and a private onsen overlooking a small garden. I especially enjoyed a quiet morning coffee there. It’s one of the best luxury onsen ryokan experiences I’ve had, and I’d love to come back in another season.

Breakfast and dinner are included, and every meal felt carefully planned and prepared. They also have complimentary after-dinner drinks in the lounge, with whiskey, plum wine, sake, and beer to choose from. The onsen is across the street at their sister accommodation, and has a lovely, picturesque outdoor bath. A wonderful place to rest and relax. The service and hospitality were incredible, and every team member made us feel right at home. Highly recommended!