Sakataya Ryokan

The best part for me was the bath. There's only an indoor one, but the water is so lukewarm that I could stay in it forever. I like that temperature, though it may take a while to warm up in winter. The source water starts out cool and seems to be heated. The shower pressure is hopelessly weak. The place is very old, and the corridors creak when you walk. Some screens and shoji are torn, but it has the feel of a grandmother's house in the countryside. Even with my allergies, I had no trouble staying, and the rooms didn't smell musty. I imagine it's hard to maintain a building exposed to wind and rain on the coast. The west coast setting is wonderful when the sky is clear and you can watch the sunset. Meals are mostly fresh seafood, and I found them neither especially good nor bad. I have a big appetite and would've liked a bit more rice, though the amount is probably right for most people. They didn't offer alcoholic drinks, which suited me since I don't drink. For under 10,000 yen, getting a hot spring inn stay with two meals included feels like a real bargain, especially these days. I know the location and other factors probably make things difficult, but I hope they keep going. I'd like to come back.

The biggest surprise was the room: I opened the window and there was the sea. I booked this ryokan for my trip to Sakata, Yamagata Prefecture, and hadn't expected much because the price was low. I would've preferred the first floor, closer to the water, but arrived late and got a second-floor room. The ocean view still made me happy. Dinner and breakfast were included, which was especially convenient as I was traveling alone and didn't have to find a restaurant. The meals were neatly served and gave me a feel for a small-town Japanese ryokan. I could relax in my room looking out at the sea, then enjoy the hot springs and local atmosphere. The facilities are older, but the warm, cozy place reminded me of my grandparents' house. With few rooms, I was able to use the hot springs all to myself. Sakata is a quieter part of Yamagata with relatively few tourists, so it suited me better than the crowds at famous tourist spots. I was very satisfied with the value and thought the stay was better than expected. It seems like a nice affordable way to experience a ryokan, especially when traveling solo in a small Japanese town. Save it if you're planning a trip to Sakata or Yamagata. I walked from Fukura Station since I was traveling on foot. It was manageable, and the ocean scenery along the way was lovely. They drove me to the station the next day. Fukura Station is unmanned and has no coin lockers, so if you have a suitcase, store it in a locker at Sakata Station before heading out. The bathing fee has to be paid in cash.

The waves, insects chirping in the garden, and what was probably a night freight train on the opposite shore, maybe on the Uetsu Line, made a lovely lullaby in autumn. It's a wonderfully peaceful place to get away from the bustle and relax. This was my second visit, and the seaside setting and view from the room are superb. It's rustic, but that doesn't bother me. You can see the Sea of Japan from the bath, and the temperature is just right for a long soak and taking in the view. Even though the water feels lukewarm, I warmed up afterward and started sweating quite a bit. Dinner is served in a dining hall overlooking the sea. It's all fish: boiled and grilled fish, sashimi, pickles, boiled shellfish, soup, and rice. There's plenty to eat, enough that I ran out of rice.

Even with the bad weather, I could tell the room and bath have amazing views. The fish dishes were delicious, and though the building is old, it's well maintained and clean. The toilet has a washlet and seems to have been renovated, so it's quite clean too. The shower pressure was pretty weak. For this price, I was unbelievably satisfied. I'd like to return on a clear day and see the sunset.