Amphon Hotel

The outside of the hotel looks lovely, but inside the rooms feel basic and worn. They have a little desk and chair, a fridge, fan, kettle and air conditioning, though the WiFi is painfully slow. We paid 250,000K per night in low season. Cleanliness is a constant issue in Laos. We’d just spent three weeks in northern Thailand, where things were on a completely different level. At first I gave this place three stars because standards and prices are lower here. After a few days in Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng and seeing other hotels, I changed my mind. Two stars is the most I can justify, which was my original estimate.

Reception were really helpful and arranged an early tuk tuk for us to the bus station. We stayed one night between a train from luang Namtha and a bus to Dien Bien Phu. The triple room cost 250,000 and had comfortable beds, effective air conditioning and a fan. It was clean, including the bathroom, although the water pressure came and went and the shower or taps would suddenly stop. The hotel is a bit outside the very centre, but the night market is about a 10-minute walk away and is a great place for food and an evening out.

The rooms are spacious and clean, there’s a kettle, and the owners are friendly. One thing to know, though: the hotel backs onto a house and restaurant where dog is served. They kill and prepare the animals in the back yard, which you can see from the hotel windows. I came across a very sad scene, so you may want to ask for a room facing the front.

A double room was 150K kip. It was quiet, with a huge, clean room, air conditioning and a fridge. The rooms are a little shabby, and the shower is combined with the toilet, like in HK. The management was surprisingly good: friendly, polite, spoke English and sorted out problems. This is the only good choice in the city.