Soma Residence Hakuba

The house itself was our favorite part. This century-old Japanese home, surrounded by trees, has been beautifully restored, blending its older character with modern amenities. Tall wooden ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows in the living and dining area made the place feel unusually spacious for a Japanese home. Through the glass, we watched snow fall over the trees, such a peaceful sight. The ofuro was another special feature. My daughter squealed, “It’s not tap water, it’s real onsen water!” Ranta, SOMA’s concierge, and his team also made a huge difference. Their door-to-door pickups, daily ski shuttles, and grocery and restaurant runs saved us time and kept our plans running smoothly. Their thoughtful Christmas touches gave the house a warm holiday feel, and their service was impeccable. We spent a week at SOMA Residence (“SOMA”) over Christmas 2023 with our family of four, on our second ski trip to Hakuba. Good ski conditions alone would have made it a good family holiday, but staying at SOMA made everything feel perfect. It’s become a favorite, and Hakuba won’t be the same for us without a stay there.

Cooking is a real pleasure here, thanks to the well-equipped kitchen. It has appliances like a Panasonic toaster and Zojirushi Enbu-taki rice cooker, and rice from Hakuba Farm tastes delicious. There’s a Miele dishwasher, built-in oven, induction stove, Zwilling knives, Fissler pots, and plenty of extras like plastic wrap, peelers, and kitchen timers. I once cracked a plate that wasn’t oven-safe, and by my next stay it had been quietly replaced with an oven-safe one. The owner and butler are prompt and thoughtful, and that’s a big reason I keep coming back. Over three years I’ve stayed four times, three winters and one summer. I’ve tried other Hakuba places, including Phoenix Chalet and Grand Phoenix, but Souma is my regular spot. I can relax without worrying about stairs or disturbing people below. It’s more than a luxury holiday home, with flexible support from the butler and a setup that keeps improving. In winter, I can board the shuttle in ski boots, store my skis until the next day if needed, and use the drying area. In summer, we had a BBQ and fireworks in the garden, then enjoyed mountaintop views from Iwatake’s Yahoo! Swing, the giant swing that looks like a real-life Heidi, Girl of the Alps, and took a gondola ride. It felt out of the ordinary, like being in Japan. For laundry there’s a Hitachi drum-type machine and a “Kantakun” gas dryer, which dries clothes quickly and means you can pack less. Natural hot spring water comes straight from the source and is available to soak in 24 hours a day. From the bathroom window, you can see the snow-covered garden in private, with a lovely sense of openness. I was surprised to find the property had gone from two bedrooms to three after another guest asked for separate rooms for three friends. I was impressed by how committed they were to meeting that need. The butler can help with restaurant bookings and directions to the ski resort kids’ area. Ringosha Soba is a minute’s walk away, and there are plenty of other choices, including yakiniku and Italian restaurants, accessible by shuttle. It can accommodate large groups, so it suits a range of guests.

From the lovely entrance hall to the living, dining, and kitchen area, the interior is really nice. The rooms, bathrooms, and washrooms are lovely too, and there’s a handy dishwasher, oven, and speakers. The Hakuba Mountains look beautiful and majestic from the neighborhood. Nagano is amazing. Sorry my amateur photos don’t do it justice.

Our family of five spent two days and one night here. It’s a renovated old Japanese house with a spacious feel and luxurious, well-equipped interiors. Though it was cold and snowy on our first day, the living room and bathroom stayed comfortable with floor heating. Both those rooms were spacious, and the hot springs were easy to enjoy. The guest room bedding was clean, and we slept soundly. It’s convenient for skiing, with nearby slopes and an on-site washer and dryer. The ski resort, restaurants, and supermarket are close by, making it a good choice for families and groups. Our whole family was very happy with the trip, and the concierge was handsome, kind, and courteous. We’d definitely stay again if we get the chance.