Hoshino Resorts KAI Aso

The room was very clean and quite large, and the onsen bath was good. Service was friendly and excellent, and the food was amazing both nights. We only wish we'd booked a third night! This is more of a forest retreat, so the room or chalet doesn't have a view. The dining room and terrace do have a nice view on clear days. That's clear on the website, though some people might still miss it.

Ms Wakana made us feel so welcome. She looked after us throughout our stay and explained the cultural background of the food in English, which we really appreciated. The meals were excellent, with the kind of Hoshino Kai style you might expect if you know the brand. We loved having a private onsen, since my wife and I aren't comfortable using a public one. The chalet-like rooms are very luxurious, though their views are just woodland. From the main building, you get a stunning look at all five craters of Mt Aso. It's a remote mountain location, easy enough to reach by car, and a great escape from city bustle. The Wi-Fi was unstable and limited for high-bandwidth use, so it's best to treat a stay here as a digital detox.

The staff serving us were friendly, but leaving was a hassle. The front desk called a very old, tiny taxi that couldn't fit both of our suitcases in the back. It was the worst Japanese taxi I've seen. Nobody told us the fare was fixed, either, and we weren't offered a bottle of water. For the price, I expected more. Even drinks with meals cost extra. The room felt average, with uncomfortable, hard slippers and a dirty floor. Housekeeping also hadn't cleaned the basin properly. Though the hotel is on a mountain, neither the rooms nor terrace had any special view. You'll need a car to go anywhere, as there are no shops nearby. Definitely shun this hotel, it was a disappointing stay.

The meals were fantastic, and we even got to attend a fun activity about how the Aso caldera formed before our first dinner. Still, the pacing of the food needs work. On our second night, dishes came so fast that some arrived before we'd finished half the previous one. They called us 20 minutes early to say dinner was ready, and after the meal hurried us over to the fireplace for dessert, just as they'd done on night one. We felt rushed throughout. The place has only 12 rooms, all spacious and with an outdoor bath. We stayed two nights and had four excellent meals. There are lovely views of Aso and the northern caldera, and the deck by the lobby is worth sitting on if you have time. The hotel is out in the country, so expect a bug or two. It's a renovated older building, too, with some old features still in the rooms. Outlets are scarce, so bring a long extension cord if you'll be charging a device.