Tsurunoyu Matsushimakan

The dinner presentation is gorgeous, and the tableware is exotic. This ryokan is in a quieter, very local area, about a 15-minute walk from the station, on one of the nearby main streets. A renowned park and shrine sit at the top of the hill. The decor feels rustic and conventional, though not especially traditional. There are several baths: one private outdoor hot spring bath for a couple or family, and two others separately, if I remember right. 😅

The birthday dessert they decorated for me became a fond memory, and the whole stay felt comfortable. Their warmth came through in the food, rooms, hot spring water, and attentive but reserved hospitality. They even picked me up from the station. Breakfast in my room, looking out at the snowy garden, was a treat: glossy white rice cooked in a clay pot. Dinner featured generous amounts of local sake and nutritious local ingredients, gently seasoned. I ate everything easily, though the Yamagata beef was the highlight. The soft-feeling hot spring water was lovely while gazing at the snow. There are three private outdoor baths, so I never had trouble getting in or found them crowded. The location is great too. After checkout, I walked along the snowy road to a butcher shop with cheap, piping hot Yamagata beef croquettes, a winery, and a liquor store with more tasting options than I've ever seen. If I return to Akayu, I'd stay here again. Honestly, I'd come back to Akayu just for this inn.

After about seven years away, we came back for delicious food and piping hot, effective bathwater. A couple of things were confusing: we were taken to the wrong room at check-in, and the faucet in our room's bath was broken, so we had to use a hose to fill the tub. In summer, the red water needs to be lukewarm with water. Even with those issues, the stay exceeded our expectations. The meal included exquisite beef and other carefully prepared dishes. I won't share many photos so future guests can enjoy the surprise, though by modern inn standards the food itself may rate a little lower. We'd already had quite a bit to drink before check-in, so we didn't have alcohol with dinner, but there was a wide selection to choose from. The hot springs and food were great, and the service had just the right distance. It's far from home, but I'd definitely visit again.

I stayed one night at Matsushimakan in Akayu Onsen for a late summer break. The in-room hot spring bath was great, and with three private baths there was no problem even though there's no large public bath. I also loved the dinner, especially the Yonezawa beef steak I ordered. That morning, I happened to run into a member of the inn's staff, who showed me around a hidden gem. A nice touch. I'd definitely stay here again! ☺