Onsen Ryokan Kamiaizuy

The two guest rooms with open-air baths look out over a stream, and the setting feels wonderfully open. The baths are generously supplied with hot water from the inn’s own source, so you can enjoy the spring water undiluted every time you soak. The area, Shiobara Onsenkyo, has a wide variety of springs, with about 150 sources and 11 hot springs. This inn’s water is a bicarbonate spring containing chloride, known for warming you to the core and for its beauty-enhancing properties.

We booked two nights for a couple at the end of the year on the [Special Offer/Room Only] plan. At about 12,000 yen per person per night, even with the year-end pricing, we expected a lot. The room itself was spacious and nice, at 12.5 tatami mats, but the stay left us disappointed. Check-in for this plan began after 6:00 PM, and we arrived around 6:30. An elderly man and woman, probably the proprietress, welcomed us and asked us to fill out the accommodation card while waiting for someone to explain the inn. We were the only guests in the lobby, but waited more than 15 minutes. When someone finally came, they gave a brief apology and then launched into a 10-minute explanation as if nothing had happened. They spent a lot of time explaining the hot spring temperature and said they intentionally don’t adjust it because they use authentic spring water, so it can be hot or lukewarm. I was looking forward to the baths after all that, but the open-air bath was far beyond lukewarm, maybe around 30 degrees. In the middle of winter in Nasu-Shiobara, only a trickle was flowing, and I couldn’t stay in for even a minute before retreating to the indoor bath. That bath was a good temperature the first time. My companion said the women’s bath was warm then, though she didn’t comment further. The next morning the men’s and women’s baths had switched. I went in hoping for a better experience, but both the indoor and outdoor baths were lukewarm, and I couldn’t get warm no matter how long I stayed. I was shivering while shaving. My girlfriend said the outdoor bath she’d used the day before had also seemed lukewarm, and she agreed with my impression. Since we booked room only, the hot springs were a big part of what we were looking forward to, so this was a major letdown. Looking back at the reviews, most of the good ones seem to be from guests in rooms with open-air baths. There were barely any amenities, either. No combs or cotton swabs, and just five razors. I don’t shave that often, lol. When I called the next morning to ask for a comb, they said I could get one from the hot spring, but didn’t bring it to me. The service felt homey in some ways, but also rude at times. I would have liked to know in advance if there were problems beyond the room.

We saw deer and cats from the veranda, and the quiet natural surroundings were calming. It’s a place where you need to be okay with insects, though. At night we took sparklers from the lobby and watched the river, which brought back a childhood feeling. The building has an old, historic character, but it’s very well maintained. The renovated rooms were clean and comfortable, with abundant amenities and thoughtful touches. The displayed items felt like high-end department store goods, the sort you might not buy for yourself but would be happy to receive as a gift. The bed was high quality and I slept soundly. The friendly staff made the stay feel comfortable, almost like coming home. The atmosphere was a little different from the dignified, purely Japanese style I personally like in a long-established inn, but I still felt at ease. The server was especially pleasant, and dinner was delicious and carefully made. Service was a little fast, which surprised me, though it also felt natural, like being at home. The sake brewed with hot spring water had a soft aroma and was so tasty I had several glasses. I heard each inn in Shiobara Onsen has its own sake, so I’d like to try other kinds next time. There are indoor and outdoor baths with genuine spring water flowing freely, without added water or heating. The temperature can be a bit hot or lukewarm depending on the day, but you can adjust it yourself. Dinner, the baths, the room, and the service felt worth the price of 74,000 yen for two, excluding drinks. It’s not a large inn, so I can imagine they may not manage every detail, but all the staff were kind and sincere. I’m looking forward to coming back.

My year-end break was ruined. The open-air bath was just water and the hot spring was too lukewarm. In the room, the toilet seat was broken and stayed cold. Maybe because there weren’t many guests, the dining room was chilly, and they said it would only warm up once the hot pot was boiling, which felt stingy. The menu had about two fewer items than at other inns. The portions were small, though tasty. I ordered a Coke and was surprised to get something flat that tasted like sugar water. Charging for that felt rude. For 33,000 yen, all of this felt like a rip-off. I won’t stay here again.