Hamachidorinoyu Kaisyu

The mixed onsen by the sea was the highlight for me, and it didn’t disappoint. The hotel has a distinctive tatami layout, so shoes aren’t allowed anywhere on the grounds. They also have evening mochi and ramen sessions, which feel like good value, and the service and facilities are top notch. That set my expectations high, so the stained basin and small marks on parts of the room wall were a slight letdown. The room is a little worn, though it wasn’t a major concern.

The staff were so friendly, especially on the rainy days we were there. They waited by the parking lot, carried our luggage, and brought us umbrellas. It felt really warm and thoughtful. Language shouldn’t be a worry either, since some staff speak English and Mandarin. We won’t regret staying here for a Shirahama vacation, and I’ll plan another Shirahama visit with Kaishu hotel.

The ocean views are gorgeous, and all the onsen were clean and cool. The cliffside baths for men and women sit right by the ocean and have a great view. They provide special clothing too, so there’s no need to feel shy. I didn’t see any stink bugs, though this is nature and insects are normal. After a soak, there’s free ice cream and cold water, and local ramen is served free from 10-11 PM. There are lots of complimentary drinks, and the breakfasts were especially amazing. The food was delicious overall, even though the main courses at the kaiseki dinner were surprisingly disappointing, with dry rice and tasteless noodles. This is a traditional ryokan, and tattoos aren’t allowed, but they immediately gave me tape to cover the ones on my arms, so it was fine. Walking barefoot or in socks on the tatami was a pleasant, authentic part of the stay. For the full experience, I don’t see much point in just choosing a room. Get a superior Japanese-style room with an open air bath or even a bungalow, and definitely choose a sea view. The ryokan is huge, but there are only two private onsen. It was easiest to get a key for one in the evening. The baths close from 10:00 to 15:00, leaving nothing to do for those 5 hours, especially in bad weather 😭. There’s no restaurant and they don’t serve anything beyond breakfast and dinner, so if it rains or there’s a typhoon, you’ll have to go outside to find food. Although lots of foreigners stay here, there’s almost no English navigation and the staff speak very little English. For a first ryokan, a more tourist-oriented place is probably a better choice. If you want to immerse yourself in onsen culture and be captivated by the ocean, this is a great option ☺️

We paid ¥110000/night for a separate room away from the main building with a private onsen. Overall, it was okay, but the cleaning service needs work. When we came back in the evening, our clothes had been scattered on the floor. We’d hung them in the hand-washing area, which was separate from the shower and onsen. I was disappointed, and that shouldn’t have happened. I understand staff may be busy, but the service standard should still be maintained.