Sennen no yu Koman Ryokan

Kinosaki was the highlight of my trip, a quiet, healing break from crowded Kyoto and Osaka, and the views were lovely by day and night. I paid 26400yen without meals, and had crab don and crab sushi around town instead. I hope to try a more luxurious ryokan next time. There was no shower in the room, which was fine since we used the onsens around town. I liked Goshono-yu, ichino-yu, and kouno-yu best. The mountain ropeway and kouno yu are opposite each other, and the view from the top makes breakfast there sound great. The check-in was lovely, with a shuttle, a warm welcome, and a friendly room introduction. But there was a language mix-up: we were told checkout was 13:00, then the lady corrected that to 10:00am as we were leaving. That left us with a goodbye and an apology that the bus only runs for check-in. Don't expect a return shuttle. The inn is near the far end of the seven onsens, so we had to drag our luggage across town to the station, quite a workout to end the trip. In my view, they should provide a shuttle both ways for guests with bags.

The room we had was huge, and the food was a real feast. Staff were genuinely friendly and helpful, sharing tips that made it easier to enjoy the inn's onsen and the nearby baths. It was my first time at this onsen, and the place has a traditional feel that's aged nicely.

The service and the spirit of the place made this stay special. I've never felt so welcome at a hotel, ryokan, or onsen. Our attendant could hold a conversation in English, though I wish more of the staff spoke it. If we understood right, the onsen goes back to the eighth century, and the same family has run the business for more than 500 years. The current owner is the 27th generation. The building has been rebuilt many times, but the expensive wood hints at how luxurious it must once have been, and the corridors have plenty of art that makes them feel like a small museum. I hope to bring my kids here in another ten years so they can experience the hotel and onsen culture. Our room was large, with 11 tatami, an entrance hall, and a spot by the windows to sit, drink tea, and hear geta clacking along the sidewalk. Some of the equipment is worn and old, which some people may actually like. There are two hot baths at the ryokan, one for men and one for women, and it seems they switch each day so even a one-night stay can include both. The food was at least good. I'm not much for fish or seafood, but even I had some fish that was surprisingly good. We came mainly for the crabs. I wish we'd stayed one more day to visit other onsens with the onsen pass.

Everything was an easy 5-10 minute walk from this great location, including the public onsens and the rest of town. Our room was just right, and the staff were attentive and really friendly.