Kashiwaya Ryokan

I came alone on a weekday in early December, visiting Atsumi Onsen for the first time. It was a lovely, peaceful spot, and I left feeling rested in both body and mind. The three-story wooden inn has a stately feel, with a soothing hot spring, local sake, an elaborate dinner, and a thoughtfully prepared breakfast. You can really feel the young owner and his wife's spirit in the place. “The taste is in the heart” feels just right for this inn.

The rooms are peaceful and restful, though there isn't much of a view. This is a charming wooden inn dating from 1953. The natural spring water flows continuously into the bath, and it was wonderfully warm. The dishes weren't much to look at, but they all tasted great.

The food was a highlight: lots of fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan, every dish delicious, and more than satisfying for the price. I had mentioned beforehand that I don't like fish with bones, and they took that into account so thoughtfully. After walking over from the station, I was worn out, and a soak in the natural spring bath helped me unwind physically and mentally. The water comes straight from the source rather than being recirculated, has a pH of 7.4, and felt gentle on my skin. It runs a little hot; the young owner adjusts it by hand, and you can add water yourself if needed. I picked the inn for its price, the option to stay solo, and its “Onsen Musume” (Onsen Girls) initiative. The historic wooden building dates to 1953. It's not stylish, and it shows its age, but that worn, retro character has a charm of its own. The floors creak when you walk, and although the rooms have air conditioning, the shared spaces don't. With the outside temperature at 32°C, those areas felt a bit hot during my stay. What stayed with me most was the atmosphere and the warmth of this family-run place, especially the young owner and the rest of the staff. It feels homely, and suits people who enjoy the romance of an old inn. The location is handy once you're in town: the inn faces Asaichi Street, and the main hot spring town sights are within a 10-minute walk. Atsumi Onsen Station is about a 30-minute walk away, though, and there aren't many obvious signs or landmarks, so I'd use Google Maps the first time. My traditional Japanese-style room was clean rather than luxurious, and the futons were already laid out when I checked in. I did find a few bugs, perhaps because of the season. I handled them myself and had no other trouble, but keep it in mind if insects bother you. There weren't any displays for Hot Spring Girls when I visited, but the inn did have tourism ambassador badges, acrylic key chains, and original bath additives made with hot spring ingredients for sale. A nice extra for fans.

There’s also a public bath nearby, but this one has that hot spring inn feel of Atsumi Onsen, so I’d recommend it too. I came for a day visit while it was raining, and though the water felt a little warm, it heated me right through. I was surprised by how much I sweated afterward. There’s a light sulfur smell, and you can tell the spring water flows freely, including from its temperature. They also sell Onsen Musume Atsumi Shizuru-chan goods here, which fellow fans might like.