Hostel Zen

I stayed in the ANNEX, which seemed quite different from the main Hostel Zen, and probably the worse of the two. For the price, I don't think I was ripped off, but it wasn't better than other nearby options either. The location isn't bad and it's not too far from a metro station, though the surrounding area's vibe may put some people off. It also felt less convenient than hostels elsewhere around Yokohama and Tokyo. The rooms and corridors were clean enough for the price, but the showers weren't very appealing. Maybe the old building and its color scheme just remind me of school in the 90s. I only had a brief interaction with someone at the door, then another person showed me to my room, so I can't say much about the staff. The facilities were the worst of the hostels I stayed in across Japan, and this was the only one where I had to pay for a shower. By then I was already close to leaving Japan.

This used to be my go-to place, and I loved staying here. It was clean, quiet, and great for the price. One of my kids was probably even conceived here. This time, though, the place had gone badly downhill. The walls were cracked, the wallpaper was peeling, and everything smelled of mold. I'm not sure it would meet code. There were moisture absorbers around my room, and the air conditioner didn't seem to remove moisture: changing the temperature made everything condense. My room was by the office, with the communal fridge just outside the door. People came and went all night, and others used the kitchen at ridiculous hours. Management should address that. I barely slept during my three days there. I was so disappointed, but since it was a cheap three-night stay, I didn't feel it was worth bringing up.

The small rooms don’t look like the bright, spacious pictures, but mine was clean and free of the cigarette smell that filled the rest of the old apartment building. The toilets were clean and well stocked; the shower less so. At breakfast, the woman serving it was lovely and made me feel cared for, like a long-lost mother. The meal was simple, served with warmth, and nice to eat on the terrace among little plants. People on the street smiled, and neighborhood stray cats came out to say hello. The hostel sits at the edge of a district marked by generations of poverty, sometimes called a “slum.” Arriving at night felt scary, with homelessness, drunkenness, and disability more visible than elsewhere in Japan, and plenty of funny looks. The building itself smelled strongly of cigarette smoke, felt grimy, and seemed full of people the city had cast aside. It may not suit the faint-hearted or women traveling alone, but it’s good value and a chance to see a different side of Japan.

I arrived at noon even though check-in was at 3pm. The woman working there tried really hard to help, even though I speak little Japanese and she didn't speak English, and got me checked in early. That was very kind. The room was small, as expected, but clean and comfortable. So far, so good. If it stays like this, I'll come back. Highly recommend.