Gaya Island Resort

Wildlife was a big highlight. We saw monitor lizards, monkeys, birds and an oriental pied hornbill that we got to watch for a while. There was also a huntsman spider, less of a highlight. The resort itself is beautiful, and everyone was helpful from the warm welcome and check-in at Jesselton point through to the island staff, bar and restaurants. We stayed in a Bayu Villa, the most basic room, and loved it. It had a huge closet, a great bathroom with a large bath, and one of the most comfortable beds I've slept in for ages. We swam every day and spotted parrot fish, puffer fish, clown fish, angel fish and more while snorkeling off the beach. We tried the private beach too, but preferred the main one. It was nice to have both the sea and pool as options. Drinks were at western prices, though happy hour from 4-6 and 8-10 had two for one offers. We ate at all three restaurants. Feast Village had a good selection and tasty food, with Malay, Western, Chinese and Indian breakfast choices, fresh juices, and sweet and savoury options. Fisherman's cove served a lovely mix of Malay and French food, especially fresh fish. It wasn't cheap, but felt worth it. At Omakase we chose Teppanyaki. Having a chef cook in front of us was great, and the beef add-on was worth the money. I did expect more interaction, like food being tossed to guests, which wasn't part of it. It was an amazing trip.

The surprises kept coming during our stay. I was treated to a complimentary Balinese Massage for me & my hubby (too) on my birthday, then surprised again at the dinner buffet and back at the villa. Thanks to the team at GIR for making it all so memorable. Our Kinabalu Villa was enormous and had a wonderful view of the mountain across the way. Service was excellent. After two days and one night of three meals a day, my husband and I left feeling heavier. The food was fresh, nicely cooked and covered a variety of cuisines. I especially liked the live counters. On Day 2 I went for an early swim, and Andy, the bartender, gave me a fresh coconut. He told me the tongue can feel a little numb from the active electrolytes when it's fresh. That made my day. We'll be back. You made the last lapse of my 3 series a great, great one!

The villas could use some attention. Our bed had a huge dip in the middle, so we kept rolling towards each other at night. On the 'coral garden snorkeling' trip, the reef was dead and much worse than the house reef, with very little marine life apart from a couple of reef sharks. The guides didn't do much to lead us to interesting sights. One apparently saw a turtle, but I only heard about it when a photo arrived on WhatsApp after the trip. The gear wasn't good either: the masks didn't fit well and there were no fins. The resort itself is in a beautiful setting and generally well maintained. It never felt crowded, so finding a sun bed was easy. There is also a private beach, and boat transfers there and back were frequent and simple. The trouble is that food, drinks and activities cost a lot for the quality, making the stay feel like a squeeze for every last drop in return for a sub-par experience. The buffet dinner was over 10 times the price of a mainland dinner that honestly tasted better. For what we paid, I can't recommend staying here. I'd choose a mainland hotel and arrange trips to nearby islands for an island fix instead.

The views out to sea weren't great, since the resort looks down the shipping channel and huge ships sit in front of it all day. The bigger issue for us, though, was the cost. Beyond the already premium room rate, there are mandatory extras that can bring the total close to double. The boat is the only way to reach the hotel, yet costs about 15 quid per person each way for a 10-minute ride. There's also an environmental fee of around 5 quid per person per night. It's for a good cause, but these unavoidable charges should be included in the upfront rate so people know the full cost when booking. Food is also very expensive. Dinner is buffet only, with no a la carte option, and costs 140 MYR per head plus service charge. There aren't cheaper choices unless you forage for fruit or spear fish, which isn't what I'd expect at a five star hotel. It feels like the resort takes advantage of having a captive market. I wouldn't recommend staying unless you're prepared to pay close to twice the room rate. There are better value options around Kota Kinabalu. The people were wonderful, from the welcome desk to the gardeners we passed on the way to our room. Everyone was friendly, communicative and helpful. The rooms were lovely and spacious, with good AC and comfortable beds. The resort blends into nature nicely, with wildlife all around. Walking to the room is good exercise, especially when carrying bags down the hill at checkout.