Pension Fujimon

We stayed in a Japanese-style room with a shared bathroom, which I thought might be inconvenient at first, but it turned out fine. The guesthouse owner was friendly without being intrusive. The surroundings were peaceful, and from the window we could see the blue sea; on clear days, Mount Rishiri Fuji was visible too. Ezo deer sometimes wandered near the window, which fascinated our child. In the evening, the sunset colored the room, and you could watch its glow from the shared dining area. We traveled with our 9-year-old in summer. The hotel is about 15 minutes from Wakkanai city center, with Cape Nokanbu, the Youth Science Museum, and Hanryo Aquarium nearby.

The futon in my private Japanese-style room was softer than I expected, and I slept really well. Lockers were provided, and there was a common room where people in the dorms could hang out before bed. Dome Onsen, Japan's northernmost hot spring, is about a five-minute walk away if you want more than a shower. After checking in, you can leave whenever you like by dropping the key in the box.

There's a stylish lounge, and guests can bring food to eat there. It has a microwave, a shared fridge, and vending machines that sell alcohol. The inn itself only has showers, but there's a day spa nearby. From the inn you can look out over the Sea of Japan and even see Rishiri Island.

The staff were thoughtful, friendly, and helpful throughout. My ocean-facing room had air conditioning, and on clear days I could see both the sea and Mount Rishiri. There wasn't a bath in the room, but the shared shower worked fine, and Japan's northernmost hot spring is nearby. The ferry terminal is roughly a 15-minute drive away.